Translated by
Clementine Martin
Published on
6 sept. 2023
In Copenhagen, fashion has entered a new stage with the joint organization of the two most important trade fairs in the country, CIFF and Revolver, absorbed by its colleague in January 2023. The first joint edition took place from August 9 to 11 at the Bella Center, under the watchful eye of professionals in the sector. The atmosphere was lively and expectations were high for this phase of transformation. Seeing ever bigger in terms of surface area and ambition, CIFF x Revolver intends to pursue its internationalization objectives and will this week make its first trip to the United States.
An edition placed under the sign of pragmatism
This first edition of CIFF x Revolver would have marked the 61st for CIFF. The challenges were high: the new event had to be faithful to the two shows while finding a new common identity, attractive and stimulating for the participants. The big challenge for CIFF x Revolver: finding acceptable compromises demonstrating that the change was positive, while satisfying as many professionals as possible.
The corridors buzzing with activity and the final participation figures seem to confirm the validity of this decision. This season, the meeting recorded three times more visitors, exceeding the 17,000 people mark (including 7,000 who came to attend only the first day, in pouring rain). The Scandinavian countries were at the head of the list of participants and represented 60% of visitors, but several foreign markets were also well present, such as Germany, the United Kingdom, Benelux and France.
Over an area of 20,000 square meters, the show brought together more than 500 exhibiting brands, again mainly from Scandinavian countries. Then came the United Kingdom, Germany, Italy and France. Questioned by FashionNetwork.com, the organization did not wish to reveal how many companies came from each show. Once again, many Italian multi-brand boutiques were among the invited buyers. Professionals from Nordic countries, France, Asia and the United States were also present.
“This season, we have chosen to come together and welcome industry from around the world to Copenhagen. We are confident and satisfied with the salon experience created,” says Sofie Dolva with conviction. The event director was named general director of CIFF last summer, taking over from Christina Neustrup. “Everything we have done over the past six months to prepare for the show is a testament to our great pride in Danish industry and our commitment to positioning ourselves as a link between Copenhagen and the world to show what we stand for abroad and promote the incredible talents we have throughout the Nordic region,” she says. This latest edition was approached “with a new perspective to create something entirely new”.
In terms of new features, the show has undergone a small refresh intended to improve the practical side. The layout of the stands was less elaborate than what CIFF participants were accustomed to, and the area exclusively dedicated to sustainable development had been removed. Indeed, environmental responsibility is now seen as “a transversal characteristic”. The space usually dedicated to conferences had also been cut back. Ultimately, the priority was clear: adapt the format and test the participants’ response for this first step.
This new layout did not hesitate to mix the stands, more minimalist than in previous editions. The show director explains to FashionNetwork.com: “We wanted to take inspiration from the traffic at Ikea, so that all the exhibitors would be seen. We separated some of the most sought-after or well-known brands and created connecting flows between them.” The sectors were still organized by category: accessible luxury, commercial ready-to-wear, emerging talents and circular fashion, footwear, men’s ready-to-wear, streetwear, outdoor, unisex fashion and beauty. Occupied by Peclers Paris, a space was dedicated to trend analysis. On the catering side, some innovations also underlined the “desire to take care of the experience”, with the presence of the trendy Mangia gourmet space.
The new format merging the two shows was seen as a favorable development by Cecilia Thorsmark, the general director of Copenhagen Fashion Week which was being held at the same time. “This is a very good decision, for the industry, for the city and for the participants of Copenhagen Fashion Week. For logistical reasons, this facilitates a smoother and more consistent experience. This union will bring very positive feedback to our entire fashion sector,” assured the manager during an interview for FashionNetwork.com.
Demanding brands full of expectations
Regarding the participants’ concerns following the acquisition of Revolver by CIFF, Sofie Dolva argues: “Many of them were keen to maintain their usual location next to other brands. We tried to meet their needs while mixing the proposals to find the right balance. For this first edition, segmentation was not our priority. Above all, we wanted to ensure high traffic and a smooth traffic experience. For next season, we will learn from our experience, the feedback we get and the figures to refine the necessary details.“ The winter edition of the show will take place from January 31 to February 2, 2024.
A regular at London Fashion Week and the CIFF show, the British label Labrum occupied a central stand with a privileged location, decorated with an artistic sculpture of African inspiration. “I am very satisfied to have participated, things improve with each edition,” assures the designer and founder of the brand, Foday Dumbuya. Possible future synergies with international fashion events interest him greatly.
An optimism shared by emblematic brands at the show, such as Snow Peak, the Japanese outdoor specialist. This season, the brand opted for an outdoor space inspired by a tea/coffee room. Good humor was also present among newbie brands, such as the local jewelry label Sorelle or the phenomenon Isnurh, a premium men’s streetwear brand founded in 2017 whose stand recorded one of the highest attendances, after being noticed during the last edition of Pitti Uomo.
“This is the first time we are participating in the CIFF. Before, we exhibited at Revolver. The feelings are very positive, sincerely,” assures the Finnish firm Marimekko. Known for its bright colors and original prints, the brand had a central stand and also showed at Copenhagen Fashion Week. Other brands had chosen to participate in both events, such as TG Botanical, Holsweiler, Henrik Vibskov and Helmstedt.
Interesting shoe brands like Sebago, Pavement, Buffalo and Steve Madden were there. But the shoe sector was also represented by agencies with a permanent showroom all year round in the exhibition space. The Bella Center currently works with more than 250 showrooms, including that of the sales agency specializing in the Nordic market Norse Fashion Agency, which represents labels such as Wushu Ruyi and the Spanish Bibi Lou, Verbenas and Hoff. “It’s a very popular brand in Sweden,” assures the agency. “The show was rather quiet but Hoff came into contact with some very good customers,” she adds.
“For us it is essential to have a presence at the show in addition to the in-depth work that we do all year round in the showroom,” underlined the managers of Verbenas, a brand founded in Elche in 2014 and present in more than 60 countries. In the Nordic countries, the brand already has more than 200 points of sale.
Sita Murt, another Spanish label specializing in high-end knitwear, has been participating in the event for ten years. This year, its goal was “to explore Scandinavian markets and accelerate development abroad”. Its representatives were rather optimistic given the results and noticed quality traffic, also obtained thanks to a strategic location, next to brands with similar positioning such as the French Sessùn and American Vintage.
Stand of the cosmetics brand GreenEtiq – CIFF x Revolver
One of Sofie Dolva’s main initiatives upon her arrival as director of the show was to create an area dedicated to cosmetics brands. For this edition, it occupied the bright space previously intended for men’s brands. The number of participants was still modest, with around fifteen representatives from the field of perfumery and facial care. However, several brands such as Bodyologist, Inuacare and Rudolph Care were already in their second edition after “the interesting results obtained last winter”. In general, brands welcomed the opportunity offered by the show and the contact with international buyers, a first step in reaching their beauty purchasing counterparts.
Danish delegation to make first trip to New York
As part of its international expansion, CIFF x Revolver will set up shop in the city that never sleeps during New York Fashion Week through a collaboration with the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) and Danish industry association Wear. From September 7 to 9, the Scandinavian show will host a 20 square meter showroom at Mercer and Grand, in the SoHo district.
On the theme of ethical fashion, CIFF x Revolver will present in the United States a selection of twelve Danish brands of women’s fashion (Hemlstedt, Nynne, Birgitte Herskind, Storm & Marie and A Roege Hove), men’s fashion (Isnurh, Berner Kuhl and Han Kjobenhavn), shoes (Vinny’s) and beauty (Rudolph Care).
Six American brands were also selected by the CFDA for their eco-responsible positioning to support them: M. Patmos, Charles Harbison, Melissa Joy Manning, Julia Jentzsch, Jahnkoy and Hope For Flowers.
“Our world is more connected than ever, but cooperation is becoming essential. It is a privilege to work with our friends at CFDA to showcase the creativity and innovation that characterize Danish design, and it is a responsibility to use our shared voice to encourage positive change that will protect the future of design. “an industry that we love and value,” assures Sofie Dolva, convinced of the relevance of the synergy between events.
“The Scandinavian region has always been one of the world’s pioneers in terms of sustainable development. I am delighted by this opportunity to meet in New York with a common goal and to celebrate what unites us,” she adds.
The director of Wear, Nikolai Klausen, says he is “proud of his country”. “We are proud to be at the global forefront of eco-responsibility, a characteristic deeply integrated into the thinking of business leaders and consumers.” For him, the collaboration between American and Danish brands represents “a progressive approach to transnational cooperation in the fashion industry,” which “offers the opportunity to share experiences and inspire each other.”
All rights of reproduction and representation reserved.
© 2023 FashionNetwork.com
2023-09-09 00:44:08
#CIFF #Revolver #transition #edition #trip #York
