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A promising start for Men’s Fashion Week in Milan

An optimistic atmosphere prevails on the platforms of Men’s Fashion Week, which kicked off Friday in Milan, as it seems that the default format that was used during the pandemic is a thing of the past, with the Italian fashion sector recording the highest sales growth in two decades.

With the return of Gucci to the men’s fashion shows after an absence of 3 years, the debut of the avant-garde Scottish designer Charles Jeffrey, and 79 fashion shows, including only four in digital format, Men’s Fashion Week in Milan this year promises a festive and joyful atmosphere that differs from what prevailed in the last two years.

Fashion consultant Elisabetta Cavatorta commented to Agence France-Presse that nothing replaces “live experience, enthusiasm, waiting, applause, transporting distinguished models on the platform and powerful music” that impresses the audience. 22 fashion shows and 36 presentations.

It is expected that the collections that will be presented during the event, according to the expert, will give a prominent position to “modern clothes that can last over time, which brings us back to the importance of returning to slow fashion,” in contrast to the industrial fashion pattern, and to “sustainability.”

The luxury house of Gucci opened Fashion Week with its first upcoming show since the departure of its famous art director, Alessandro Michele, at the end of last November.

In a simple presentation, far from the strange style of its previous designer, the Gucci House wanted to celebrate the “aesthetics of improvisation”, through a group dominated by the classic character but with a bold touch.

Gucci’s men’s designs are distinguished by their flexible materials that mix types and colors, with a combination of faded jeans, sequined shirts and green, red or pink heels inspired by the seventies fashion.

Long, embellished coats worn over loose trousers or long slit skirts that reveal the legs are also included in these collections. Woolen hats, rectangular shopping bags or shoulder garment bags are among the essential accessories.

After being called to the House’s rescue in 2015 and revitalizing sluggish sales, Alessandro Michele has given the Kering Group brand a new lease of life with bold, often highly ornate and playful collections.

But after a significant increase in Gucci sales in the early years of Michele’s tenure (+37% in 2017 and +44% in 2018), the house has fallen behind its competitors in the past two years.

“Creativity has finally started to slow down, and I think that’s also reflected in sales,” Elisabetta Cavatorta said.

She added, “It remains to be seen whether Alessandro Michele’s departure will prompt a change in the direction of the fashion house,” and pave the way for a “revolution in terms of style and sophistication.” Gucci was the one who provided the artistic direction for the fashion show in Milan. From Armani to Prada, through Fendi, Dolce & Gabbana and Zegna, major brands responded to the call to participate in Men’s Fashion Week. But there have also been rifts, as happened with Versace, which will unveil its men’s and women’s collections on March 10 in Los Angeles.

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