New York Fashion Week officially kicked off on February 9. With more than 80 designers, some established, others emerging, this edition stands out for its diversity and sustainability.
[Lo mejor de la Semana de la Moda de Nueva York para primavera-verano 2023]
Kevan Hall, who was Halston’s creative, Sergio Hudson, who dressed Vice President Kamala Harris at her inauguration and House of Aama, mother and daughter who draw inspiration from black history, are just a few of the confirming participants.
Although some iconic names are missing againlike those of Ralph Lauren or Tommy Hilfiger, the New York week continues to generate interest in the proposals of designers promoted by the guild itself.
Until February 15some established ones such as Carolina Herrera, Prabal Gurung, Jason Wu, Proenza Schouler, Thom Browne or Michael Kors will present their collections, and others who have gained notoriety in recent years, such as Sergio Hudson, Brandon Maxwell or Markarian.
We review the keys to the first two days of the new edition of New York Fashion Week, which combines the autumn/winter 2023/2024 collections.
The fantastic universe of Rodarte
New York Fashion Week was officially inaugurated with the Rodarte show. Founded in Los Angeles in 2005the signature designed by Kate and Laura Mulleavy became a reference for its multiple artistic references and its particularly recognizable aesthetic sense.
Numerous personalities bet and still bet on their designs (we remember, for example, the dress of Elle Fanning at the 2020 Berlin Film Festival). Her art also reached the world of cinema, the brand was in charge of the costumes for the film Black Swancon Natalie Portman.
Looking ahead to this autumn/winter, invite us to discover their fantastic world. We find, on the one hand, clear Gothic references, with black dresses with imposing shoulder pads, feathers and lace, reinforced by dark makeup.
They are balanced with more colorful designs, with prints and tulle, which even include elements as surprising as wings. Fairy and witch at the same time, between light and darkness, the Rodarte woman moves between two worlds.
Collina Strada’s animal tribute
The firm, which defines itself as “a platform for climate awareness, social awareness, change and self-expression”, has made its great debut at New York Fashion Week with a collection with an unequivocal name: “Please don’t eat my friends” (“Please don’t eat my friends”).
Authentic homage to the animal world, incorporated horns and earsgarments printed with the faces of animals such as dogs and others, which were intended to imitate the texture of their fur.
All this, sublimated by fabrics such as silk and knitwear, both in more daytime designs (with a wide, comfortable cut) and nighttime (in tight-fitting evening dresses) and a natural palette, with a special role of earth tonesin line with the animal world.
SIMKHAI minimalism
Founded in 2010 by designer Jonathan Simkhaithe firm draws inspiration from the work of both architects and sculptors, combining progressive construction techniques with intimate hand-drawn details to create truly special apparel and lifestyle designs.
A 2015 winner of the prestigious CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, the studio gained recognition for its original silhouettes, quality constructions and timeless elegance. This spirit was reflected again in his autumn/winter proposal, remarkable for its simplicity.
With straight, defined cuts, the line includes seemingly classic designs that, however, they echo the most current aesthetic. Of the dress blazer from marked shoulder pads to the perfect short leather through the pinstriped suit with straight-cut trousers… each design incorporates details that make the difference.
His color palette is neutral. White, black and blue dominate. beige, in all kinds of fabrics, united by quality and craftsmanship. Cotton, silk and leather take on a special role. The firm seizes, in an elegant and genuine way, of the concept of aesthetic minimalism.
The chromatic deployment of Prabal Gurung
Prabal Gurung’s presentation was one of the most anticipated on the calendar. The designer, who launched his eponymous collection in February 2009, made his way into international fashion for his vision of luxury, modern, glamorous and sustainable. More than 90% of his collections are made in New York.
Looking ahead to the next season, it invites us to dream of a wide range of colors and brightness, both in garments and accessories, with a collection that perfectly combines Eastern and Western aesthetics.
Bright colors are the ones that capture attention: Red wears a coat, combined with an orange miniskirt. Pink is associated with green, in a silhouette that combines a blouse and a draped skirt. The rhinestones, sequins and sparkles come to life, in two-piece sets and cut-out dresses. Added to them is a surprisingly romantic and inspiring motif: the butterfly.
Several stylistic bets expected by the designer that, however, contrast in a surprising way with more discreet, almost minimalist designs, such as a white satin dress or one in black leather.
All are illuminated with jewels, imposing and juxtaposed, essentially golden, which does not exclude any part of the body: wrist, ankle, ear, arm… all are dressed in glitter, creating ostentatious and subtle silhouettes at the same time.
White reinvented by Dion Lee
The first day of the official calendar Dion Lee closed. The Australian designer, who launched his eponymous label in 2009, advocates experimental construction combined with traditional tailoring.
In this sense, each collection is presented as “an innovative construction, with an awareness of form. The textiles are designed to form sculptural embellishments. The architectural silhouettes are dissected to improve movement and the flow of air and light” according to the firm itself.
Its autumnal proposal strengthens its DNA with party silhouettes, which play with lines and fabrics, in an avant-garde way. He has to mention the search for sensuality in each design: he presents tops and short, ultra-tight skirts, with openings, that hug the body and reveal the body, in a controlled way.
The animals, the undoubted protagonists of the first day of the New York Week, are also glimpsed in the designer’s proposal with an embossed reptilian effectin a large number of garments, as well as a shearling texture, a classic in designs for the autumn/winter season.
The architectural spirit of the firm is reflected in transparent and imposing feathers, trench coats with shoulder pads and dresses with draping and asymmetries, among others.
The romanticism of Sandy Liang
The New York designer, who presented a minimalist collection for this spring, offers us a collection that pays homage to romanticism with her autumn/winter collection.
Of course, a romanticism 2.0. Satin bows peek into sleeveless feathers, puff sleeves dress suggestive sheer designs, and flowers adorn crop tops and dresses with openings.
Seemingly “demure”, the collection stands out for its intelligent sensuality. Reveals navels and legs, without excesses and with distinctive accessories, such as gloves and ballerinas, which encourage this dialogue between glamor and sweetness.
Proenza Schouler’s capsule wardrobe
This edition has a special flavor for the firm: it celebrates its 20th anniversary at New York Fashion Week. For the occasion, the designer duo formed by Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough, wanted to pay tribute to women and more specifically, to the women who inspired them the most, such as the actress Chloë Sevigny.
They were the starting point of a collection that It is presented as a complete wardrobe of timeless garments like the suit, the leather skirt, the white shirt or the shearling coat.
Basic but never boring: the creators add more daring touches that also make up their identity: openings, transparencies, lurex but also more unexpected colors such as neon yellow, which probably marks the most daring look in the collection.
“We are interested in designing a complete and contemporary wardrobe for today’s intelligent, adult and urban woman” affirm the duo in unison. Challenge achieved again this 2023.
Sukeina’s modern woman
This 2022 marked the 10th anniversary of the firm, Designed by designer Omar Salam. Her name, Sukeina, is a tribute to her late mother and means “bright light”, which “reconciles us with the value of everything, and without it, everything is lost”, as the artist recalls.
In this edition, it once again defends its values of quality, sustainability and artistic exploration with designs that establish a dialogue between the past and the present. The designer dresses his woolen coats, with straight and forceful lines, with XXL zippers and fur details.
She dares with transparencies and colored bands in the most minimalist black dress. She adds pockets to the midi skirt and white turtlenecks to almost all of her designs, which essentially move in the range of blacks and grays. The result? A wardrobe made to measure for the confident woman who is faithful to her style.
Filed under Designers, Design, Fashion, Fashion Runways, New York Fashion Week
