Stefano Ghisolfi’s Quest for “Burden of Dreams”, the Hardest Boulder on the Planet

Stefano Ghisolfi has just returned from his second trip to Finland, during which he continued his work in “Burden of Dreams”, the first 9A boulder on the planet. We went to meet him to find out a little more.

After going for the first time to the forest of Lappnor, in Finland, in April, Stefano Ghisolfi changed his whole program and decided to return there again in May. His goal was clear: to continue his work in “Burden of Dreams”, one of the hardest blocks on the planet, recently repeated by William Bosi.

It must be said that the Italian got into his own game. While he was simply planning to shoot a new video to feed his Youtube channel, the 30-year-old climber was surprised to have good feelings in the replica in resin from “Burden of Dreams”. What was then just a joke turned into a real goal for Stefano, who is used to throwing the toughest routes on the planet.

“I’m really enjoying this new challenge, and even though I might never do it again, I’m having fun and it’s really worth it, just for that reason”, he wisely declared.

While his second Finnish trip has just ended, Stefano Ghisolfi has agreed to come back for us on his journey in “Burden of Dreams”.

Stefano, we get the feeling that you first tried the “Burden of Dreams” line just for fun. But you seem to have gotten into the game! Tell us a bit about what motivated you to try the hardest boulder in the world?

That’s totally it! At first, I tried the replica just for fun, in England with Will Bosi. He was already trying it a little more seriously so I jumped at the chance to shoot a video for my youtube channel, without any expectation. But it turned out that I moved well in the central part of the block and felt quite comfortable in this style. That’s when I realized maybe I should go try real bouldering, just out of curiosity.

And the fact that it’s the hardest boulder in the world motivates me even more! Even though I have never climbed 8C or 8C+, I know that I have some experience in difficult routes and that I can apply it to work on “Burden of Dreams”.

During your first trip to Finland last month, you made great progress in “Burden of Dreams” with each session. Did you expect to move so well in the block?

Before going to Finland, I trained for one more week in Elias Iagnemma’s gym, where he also has a line, and I did all the moves except the first one. I didn’t know what it was going to be like in Finland, but I had a clear plan: the first day, I wanted to do all the movements intrinsically (except the first), the second I wanted to chain two consecutive movements, the third three movements and the fourth four movements (from the second to the top), and each session trying the first movement and hoping to do it on the fifth day… And that’s exactly what happened!

Why did you choose to return to Finland so quickly?

The season was about to end soon, because even though it’s in Finland, it can get hot here! So I changed all my plans and booked a trip to Finland for May.

©Diego Borello

How did your new work sessions go? Did you continue to progress? Did you redo the first movement?

My progress has clearly slowed down, which is normal… I managed to redo the first movement, but nothing after that. However, I feel better and better in the rest of the block.

Is Shawn Raboutou still there? Do you share sessions together and tips?

Yes, Shawn was there and everything was going great! Besides, if you want more details, you should ask him.

©Diego Borello

Have you been in contact with Nalle Hukkataival, the first bouldering climber?

I haven’t spoken to Nalle for a long time… The last time I met him was in 2018, and since then we haven’t met again. But I can tell you that I have seen his videos many times to try to unlock all the secrets of “Burden of Dreams”!

It’s the first time you’ve invested so much in a block. Do you like it?

In truth, it’s not the first time… In 2015 I found myself working “Gioia” an 8C+ boulder for a few months, but little by little, I ended up concentrating on projects on the crag and I finally gave up the block. I enjoy the whole working process, as much as on the way. There are big differences, but the challenge and the sensations are the same.

How do you rate your chances of performing “Burden of Dreams”?

I would say my chances on this trip were 25%, 50% in 2023, 80% by the end of 2024.

© Sarah Grippo

William Bosi had potentially found a new method, with a left heel. Have you tried this method?

Yes, it looks good, but it doesn’t work for me. I’m definitely not flexible enough, so I’ll probably stick to the original method.

What are your plans for the rest of the season?

I will participate in a bouldering World Cup, four difficulty World Cups, the World Championship in Bern and then I will be in Norway to try “Silence” in August and September.

© Crimp Films

Exactly, speaking of “Silence”, if you had to choose between following this path or “Burden of Dreams”, what would you choose?

“Silence” is something I’ve had in my sights for longer, and right now I still consider myself more of a cliff climber than a blocker… But maybe I might change my mind in the future !

A little anecdote to tell us about “Burden of Dreams” or your work process?

Yes, since Shawn Raboutou and Will Bosi arrived, many people visit the block just to see it and attend a few sessions, as spectators. Sometimes, if there is no one climbing, they leave notes, wishing climbers good luck. It’s becoming (or maybe always has been since the first ascent of Nalle) a real tourist attraction!

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And if Stefano Ghisolfi signed the second repetition of “Burden of Dreams”?