Through Frédéric Bourgeois
Published on
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The 68th edition of the Tripière d’Or takes place this weekend at the Ducal Palace in Caen (Calvados). It rewards the best dishes, from the Mention d’Honneur (5th) to the Tripière d’Or (1st). The copper terrine, bearing the names of the winners of the competition, is a much coveted trophy. Each year, many of them try to seduce the finest palates of the jurats of the brotherhood dedicated to tasting and promoting Caen-style tripe.
Franck Julienne is one of them. Second in 2019 after being on the podium in 2018, the butcher on rue Saint-Patrice in Bayeux (Calvados) was deprived of competition in 2020 due to the crisis. The Bayeusain craftsman, installed since 2002 at 23, rue Saint-Patrice, is hungry for victory for the return of the world championship. The Tripière d’Or competition – a brotherhood founded in Caen in 1952 by Jean Le Hir – is the oldest culinary contest in France.
A dish of friends
Sometimes criticized when their mere evocation makes those who have already tasted them salivate, Caen’s fashionable guts perfectly illustrate friendship. From breakfast to the return of the evening, this typically Norman preparation, made with the four parts of the stomach of a ruminant (the belly, the leaf, the cap and the abomasum) can be enjoyed on all occasions.
Accompanied by beef trotters, carrots and herbs, the tripe should cook slowly, between 18 and 24 hours. With a precise assembly of the pieces of meat – which must measure 4 to 5 cm per side – in a sauce whose balance must be perfect.
“Cooking is very important in order to achieve perfection in terms of taste. It must simmer very slowly, ”confirms Franck Julienne, who came very close to victory in 2019.
Appearance and balance. Smell and perfume. Taste and flavor. The appreciations that accompanied his 2019 International Grand Prix praise the preparation of Franck Julienne, sanctioned on one detail. “A slight lack of cooking that I rectified this year”. A year that could end in style. “I came across a real competition tripe, very white and very thick”.
The taste of competitions
Craftsmen can put their mastery of the recipe to the test as part of the Tripière d’Or. Accustomed to competitions for fifteen years, Franck Julienne is a competitor who will be keen to show what he has in his stomach to reach the minimum score of 75 points and win the Holy Grail.
People come from far and wide to buy prize-winning tripe.
On the lookout for cups and diplomas, many consumers push open the door of the Boucherie du Bessin, which has won awards in several competitions, particularly for country terrine, liver pâté or entrecote. The copper terrine of the Tripière d’Or would look great on rue Saint-Patrice. It would be a hell of a gift, a month after Franck Julienne’s 50th birthday!
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