Saddle reopens, the classic that Madrid lost and recovered

He missed himself. The times, the fashions. That hospitality of yesteryear, that old school classicism, makes true pirouettes for staying. Many tried them without success. Many were lost. Among them, that emblem of the capital that was the Clodoaldo Cortés Jockey, more than 50 years bringing together the ‘crème de la crème’ of national society and the world. It closed in 2012 after trying to float with a reinvention. Seven years later, Saddle comes to claim that which disappeared.

Beyond the premises, on Calle Amador de los Ríos, and the name, related to horse riding (‘saddle ‘is saddle in English), nothing remains of the hardwoods and capitonés. What does remain is the essence, the essence of a luxury restaurant that Madrid needed, not in the league of the most conceptual and loved by Michelin nor in the one of the openings of the moment, but in that of past years, of dressed tables, ceremony and academicism in the kitchen.

Entering Saddle is surrendering to what Jockey promulgated but so well brought to our days that it is impossible not to get away

With these ingredients, however, it’s hard mark a before and after, avoid comparisons, do not fall into the rancid. No one had dared to undertake in this regard until a powerful team, with majority stakes in the iKasa and Marcapital companies and formed by reputed professionals In charge of every aspect of the restaurant, he has succeeded. Go if it has succeeded.

The strength of design

Entering Saddle is surrendering to what Jockey promulgated but so well brought to our days that it is impossible not to get away. First of all, for the project of interior design so beastly by Studio Gronda, a bright contemporary design that moves away from that darkness and narrowness of its predecessor to go into open spaces with a very clear protagonism of the natural, as for the light, which enters through a skylight and large windows, and as for the vegetal decoration, which is glimpsed in a careful Interior garden. There is not a single variegated element. What’s more, the pristine white prevails hardly broken by the warmth of golden and pastel tones in lamps, floor or walls and some elegant reddish stroke. It happens like this from the beginning, in the lobby bar, it is still like that in the spectacular central hall and continues in its various reserved superiors, intimate and perfect for meetings.

Upon crossing its door, it welcomes its area of ​​low tables, smaller than in the beginning, in 2019, by the introduction of another more reserved, with combo bar showing an outstanding collection of spirits and cocktails by Alberto Fernández (Dr. Stravinsky, Paradiso). It boasts hundreds of whiskeys and combinations such as sour that evokes the Jockey era and many other referring options with your personal touch. There is a reduced pecking letter for a appetizer (oysters, caviar) where before there was a more extensive one. From her we miss that gilda with razors and teardrop barnacles.

In the imposing dining room or in the private offices, under the baton of Carlos García Mayoralas (Grupo Dani García), director, and Stefano BuscemaMaître, that protocol although fresh and young display of service. In the open kitchen, the former Santceloni or Lakasa Adolfo Santos, armed with good companions, takes many longs French and Spanish culinary history recipes and brings them to the present day with a masterful hand.

Paper

Seasonal suggestions aside, and after a delicious selection of Panic breads with EVOO from Castillo de Canena or butter roll from Échiré, your eyes go behind a exquisite mullet with a bilbaine emulsion (€ 38), a braised sole with a very special meunière (for two people, € 49 per beard) or a veal shank tribute to Santi Santamaría (€ 45, also for two) who is already star recipe, they tell us, and that it is finished preparing, like the fish, in front of the diner.

There are more tributes. For example, the mellow and tasty Madrid-style tripe with just the right amount of spice or the bottles of wine made by Cune and labeled for Jockey, of which some are still in the cellar. THE cellar. That multi-awarded treasure managed by Israel Ramírez with 1,400 references from Europe and the New World (almost exclusively the Napa Valley) and ranging from alternatives from 38 euros to real ones, limited and almost impregnable jewels. Resisting a pairing (€ 120/300), if it were not so high in price, would be difficult.

It is a joy, yes, there is the order of 50 possibilities per cup that rotate every week. Also that many dishes, almost all, are offered in half portions, a total success. You can also request a tasting menu (ten passes, € 120) if you don’t want to think.

Summer news

After the end of the state of alarm, Saddle has also reopened with summer news that conquered us, especially the lemon fish tataki with a parsnip gazpachuelo and a citrus tabboule to enhance flavor and texture (€ 27, € 17 half portion). He too tuna tail tartar with a golden beetroot ajoblanco that almost seems like a side dish (€ 29/18).

Menu or menu culminate with some desserts that claim the mention, like the very thin cake apple tatin or the beautiful cheese cart, finished in own maturation chambers, which parades around the tables before the coffees and teas, which is a ritual didactic. The drink moment arrives in another cart with the selection of spirits and whiskeys mentioned when talking about the bar.

Saddle is paid, that is so. And a fairly high ticket although it has dropped somewhat. But is that restaurant ideal for business lunches or dinners or who deserves, without more, give away. Someone or, what the hell, yourself.

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