Translated by
Sonia BROYART
Published on
Feb 17 2019
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New York Fashion Week is over. The rendezvous that mixes men’s and women’s parades saw bold and very colorful silhouettes, illustrating the search for happiness in a country plagued by increasing social and political unrest in recent years.
1) bright colors
Splendid colors hover over the whole season and bring a certain optimism to warm up the harsh winter months. At Carolina Herrera, fall 2019 is a bouquet of yellows, oranges, greens and blues, courtesy of its artistic director, Wes Gordon, who continues to add a young and contemporary touch to the brand. Meanwhile, at Sies Marjan, a crystal floor sets the scene for a painting composed of purple, yellow and pink. Neon hues have made numerous appearances under various labels, in particular neon green, currently a favorite on Instagram, and neon orange.
2) All shades of pink
–If one color were to be crowned queen this season, pink would win the crown. In addition to appearing on the catwalks of colorful brands like Kate Spade, the hue also stood out as the dominant shade at Helmut Lang and Hugo Boss, where total pink look silhouettes stood out with collections mainly composed of black, white and Grey. For Zadig & Voltaire, hot pink stands out on a monochrome look with a turtleneck, jacket and skirt for women, while it comes in bright pink on the sleeves of a sweatshirt for men. A deep and intense fuchsia has appeared many times at Robert Geller and Tom Ford, and extends to accessories, with Mansur Gavriel offering the candy pink handbag in all sizes and shapes.
3) The costumes
–This season, the lines of the male suit adapt to all silhouettes. The avant-garde of this trend is Helmut Lang, where the principles of renowned tailors are applied to the fall / winter looks for men and women in their iterations thanks to the expert eye of its artistic director, Mark Thomas. A similar structure was seen on the runways of Boss and Proenza Schouler, with looks inspired by architecture, sculpture and modern art to create worked silhouettes.
4) the return of the 1970s
–This season, it looks like a lot of designers have caught some sort of 1970s nostalgia – maybe it’s the refusal of a present lacking in spice. The intense influence of the music of this decade has played an important role in terms of aesthetics, with Longchamp offering a women’s collection full of energy, worthy of a Rolling Stones tour, while Michael Kors recreates Studio 54 in its heyday. Among the many iconic trends of the era, shearling, plush and other fur coats were at the heart of Michael Kors and Longchamp’s shows, and the same goes for Tory Burch, Coach, Zadig & Voltaire and the emerging, Area . Elsewhere, Tom Ford hides the seductive looks of his models with very 70’s hats while a Bee Gees cover resounds in the background.
5) Shiny and sparkly
–If the intense pigments of NYFW weren’t enough, shimmering fabrics came to titillate the public eye. At Ralph Lauren, that translates into a luminous gold that diffuses over jackets, dresses and shoes, while Michael Kors stays on the Studio 54 theme and embellishes his collection with sparkles. At Carolina Herrera, a maxi dress covered in small reflective silver squares would make any disco ball green with envy, while Zimmermann sent more than a silver and metallic coat to her catwalk. Young brands like Romeo Hunte and Descendent of Thieves, whose collections include shiny satin looks, have added a new dimension to the trend.
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