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In Cairo, an artisanal dye works for 120 years

AFP, published on Monday January 27, 2020 at 3:13 p.m.

In the Darb al-Ahmar district (old Islamic Cairo), Salama Mahmoud, owner of one of the last artisan dyeing establishments in the Egyptian capital, has perpetuated a know-how passed down from generation to generation for almost 120 years.

In an atmosphere bathed in steam, workers untangle long cotton threads, hang them on wooden poles and then soak them in large basins, filled with steaming water and dye.

From cotton to silk, via polyester or wool, the dyeing establishment – which opened its doors in 1901 – deals with “all types of fibers” used in the textile, shoe or tapestry industry , proudly explains Mohamed Kamel, the owner’s son-in-law with whom he has been working for seven years.

“We first flatten the cotton threads and then dip them in the dye. Then we air, wring, wrap and then stretch the threads (to dry them) before folding and sending them” to customers , he adds.

Among the 23 artisan dyeing establishments in the Egyptian capital, Mr. Mahmoud’s small factory is one of the last still in operation.

The advantage of the factory is to be able to adjust its production to small quantities of yarns (up to half a kilo) where large industrial dyers “dye quintals, even tons” of fabric at once.

Comparing his factory to industrial dyers, Mr. Mahmoud, 83 years old and owner of the premises since 1974, affirms that “it is the know-how that makes the difference”.

Although the old craftsman is pleased to have customers all over Egypt, Sudan and “even a lady from the United States”, he regrets the competition of low-priced Chinese products which dominate the market.

“A sweater made with our son costs 200 Egyptian pounds (11.5 euros) while a Chinese sweater costs 20 or 30 pounds (2 euros),” he adds.

The prices of the dye, imported from all over the world, have also “increased considerably”, complicating the daily life of his business, explains Mr. Mahmoud.

To reduce production costs, the craftsman began to use wood, rather than gasoline, as fuel in his factory.

Nevertheless confident, the octogenarian proudly affirms that his job “will never disappear”. “It will disappear when we start to go out naked in the street,” he says with humor.

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