That other Oudenaarde – Leisure

You have to be careful with provincial cities. Sometimes they dare to hide their true assets from the outside world. Or they only show them to people who really take the time to explore. A street, a church or a museum suddenly reveals itself as the home of an atypical masterpiece. Or the traces of a craft once famous all over the world. Oudenaarde is such a provincial city.
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You have to be careful with provincial cities. Sometimes they dare to hide their true assets from the outside world. Or they only show them to people who really take the time to explore. A street, a church or a museum suddenly reveals itself as the home of an atypical masterpiece. Or the traces of a craft once famous all over the world. Oudenaarde is really a provincial town, one Sunday a year it is in the spotlight, thanks to the Tour of Flanders which has been coming here for several years now. It remains relatively quiet the rest of the year. Yet this city in the Flemish Ardennes holds a particularly glorious past. For centuries Oudenaarde enjoyed worldwide fame thanks to the tapestries that were exported to all corners of Europe. This history of craftsmanship begins during the Hundred Years War (1337-1453). “Until then, Oudenaarde, like so many Flemish cities, maintained close ties with England and exported woolen fabrics to this country,” says city guide Michel Debaets. “Because of the war, this trade came to a complete halt and the artisans of the area had to find another market for their wool. They then began making woolen tapestries. They learned the technique from the weavers of Arras who had fled after their city was been destroyed during the battles between the Burgundians and the French king.” Commercial success was not long in coming and reached its peak in the 16th and early 17th centuries. At the time, Oudenaarde tapestries could be found in the homes of many of the world’s mighty, including in the palaces and wealthy mansions of Florence and Madrid. The carpets were particularly renowned for their exquisite greenery, lush plant scenes in which all manner of exotic and sometimes bizarre animals appeared. The story goes that during a stopover in Oudenaarde, Emperor Charles fell in love with the charms of a voluptuous daughter of a tapestry weaver. Result: a short idyll and the birth of a natural daughter. That girl had been recognized by his father: Charles V usually assumed responsibility for the fruits of his extramarital affairs. She later grew up as Margaret of Parma and became the wife first of Alessandro de Medici and then of Ottavio Farnese, ending up as governor of the Netherlands. Or how carpet weaving can take you far. The golden age of vegetables is long gone, but this richness remains clearly visible in many buildings. Not least in the Gothic town hall, which dominates the Grand Place in all its glory. The outside is impressive, but the inside is worth a visit. The ancient rooms, such as the Sala del Popolo and the Cappella degli Assessors, have incredible decorations and details, such as the surprising draft door, which was supposed to retain the heat and is equipped with rich sculptures. But where are the tapestries? Don’t panic, you will see it a little further on. Moreover, part of the town hall and the adjoining cloth room house the Mou, the museum of Oudenaarde and the Flemish Ardennes. About twenty historical and locally produced tapestries hang here. Take the time to admire the great refinement, the well-preserved colors and the many details. If you plan to visit the Mou soon, you can enjoy the temporary exhibition on animals in tapestries until November 6th. It also includes tapestries from Edingen and Geraardsbergen, two towns in the area that were also manufacturing centers. The exhibition also gives access to a strange cabinet of curiosities. With any luck you can see the last carpet restorer in town at work on her loom (normally on Tuesday and Thursday afternoons). “Until a few years ago the city still had a large studio specializing in the restoration of tapestries, unfortunately no longer today,” our guide complains. The town hall is obviously Oudenaarde’s greatest treasure, but not the only one. If you follow the signposted city promenade, you will automatically pass the most important sights. Not all the buildings in the old streets are equally interesting, but you will still find quite a few surprises. Often unpretentious, but fun or entertaining. Like the former city baths, the Bisschopskwartier, the strange butcher’s library… One example among many is the tiny beguinage, an oasis of peace and tranquility and at least as cute as its large counterparts in Bruges and Ghent. During your walk you will inevitably end up on the banks of the Scheldt. Cycling enthusiasts who prefer a flat route to climbing the Oude Kwaremont or Paterberg trails have long known: A wide, car-free cycle path runs along the Scheldt between Oudenaarde and Ghent, but also between Oudenaarde and Tournai. On the same bank of the Scheldt, the most beautiful image of the city awaits: the view of the Pamele district. Michel Debaets: “In the Middle Ages, this district was an independent city and rival of Oudenaarde on the other bank. The two cities only merged in the 16th century.” Pamele has been a neglected neighborhood for a long time, but now it has become very trendy. Cross the Scheldt Bridge and you will soon come face to face with the picturesque Church of Our Lady, a jewel of Scheldt Gothic. If you get the chance, go inside (the church is unfortunately often closed). In the richly decorated interior, a peculiarity rather rare in our region stands out: a two-story reclining tomb, typical of the Renaissance. At the top level we see idealized images of the deceased, below we see them as highly realistic remains. Fortunately, we don’t have to end on this macabre note. Head back to the Grote Markt for a refreshing drink. Oudenaarde is the capital of Oud-Vlaams Bruin, a slightly acidic red-brown beer. The city once had 17 breweries brewing this beer. Five remain, including the well-known Liefmans brewery. It is therefore better to choose one of the other four, because they are much more difficult to find elsewhere More information: www.oudenaarde.be