Cooking & EatingExtra virgin olive oil is famous for its taste and pure properties. Unfortunately, not all bottles meet the quality requirements, according to Wilma van Grinsven-Padberg, olive oil sommelier and author. That is why she wants to wake up the Netherlands: what is going wrong – and six other pressing questions.
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What is Extra Virgin Olive Oil?
Extra virgin is the oil that is known for its pure qualities, Van Grinsven-Padberg praises the product. “Sister products classic or mild olive oil are mixed, heated and processed, but that does not apply to the extra virgin variant. The product therefore contains all the nutrients that a good oil should have, such as vitamins E, K, omega 3-6-9 and antioxidants.
Unprocessed oil has more health benefits, confirms Tiny van Boekel, emeritus professor of food technology at Wageningen University and Research. “Although the biggest difference is mainly in the taste. Extra virgin is tastier.”
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What’s going wrong?
According to Van Grinsven-Padberg, a number of requirements apply to the production of the crème de la crème of olive oils, which are not always met. Extra virgin must come from the very first olive press, and it is important that the producer makes some progress. “Olives must be pressed within twenty-four hours. If not, a fusty defective. The oil smells and tastes strongly of black olive tapenade. Olives are often ripe at the same time, and many producers have only one press. So that sometimes happens.”
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Olive oil is a particularly delicate product, emphasizes the sommelier. “Great enemies are light, air, time and heat. A lot can go wrong before it hits the shelves. Oil has a strict shelf life (up to 24 months after pressing), is regularly in the spotlight for too long or is sold in a transparent bottle.” These are all factors that contribute to substandard olive oil.
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Slippery hands after using olive oil? Not if you use this tip. Text continues below the video.
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What about in Dutch supermarkets?
The Netherlands has an enormous supply of extra virgin olive oil, but there is insufficient knowledge, according to Gregor Christiaans, olive oil taster and author of Nice and fat – all about olive oil† Actually, all those bottles should be checked, but that is almost impossible, he believes.
,,Without specialist knowledge, it is very difficult to assess this product”, warns Van Grinsven-Padberg. “Supermarket buyers rely on the adjusted lab report and the acidity. This may not be higher than 0.8 percent, but actually says too little about the quality. A processed oil can also have a very low acid percentage.”
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Both experts speak of ignorance. “Producing, storing and transporting really good extra virgin requires the right resources (read: money) – and not everyone realizes that. “I once spoke to a supermarket buyer who proudly told me: “I sell my extra virgin olive oil for 3.50 euros.” Then you don’t really know what you’re talking about. You won’t get a good bottle of extra virgin olive oil for less than ten euros, converted to a liter. Broadly speaking.”
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But there are official requirements – how are they checked?
There are indeed official guidelines that the extra virgin must meet – the acidity level is one of them. These conditions have been laid down EU-wide and are even tested: first in a laboratory, followed by organoleptic taste and odor research, by a certified panel, according to Christiaans. “There are countless panels worldwide, the International Olive Council accredits all of those panels and trusts that they will review the conditions objectively.”
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But the method is not watertight. “Only 45 panels have been officially designated. In practice, producers more than once set up their own panel. A panel must officially consist of about eight to twelve skilled olive oil tasters, but no training or background as a taster is required. Sometimes their own employees are even part of the panel, and then come to the conclusion themselves: the product is ‘good’. Inhouse testing we call that”, says Christian.
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What do we notice about that?
The lack of control encourages fraud, and it is very possible that substandard olive oil will reach the supermarket, both experts say. Van Grinsven-Padberg is regularly shocked by the quality. “It is a pity that many consumers still do not know what really good extra virgin olive oil should taste like.” Christiaans is also firm: “My strong suspicion is that not all bottles are actually extra virgin.”
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And what now?
It’s also a price thing, adds Christiaans. “Consumers must also be prepared to pay.” Yet both experts strongly advocate change. Van Grinsven-Padberg was recently nominated by the Ministry of Agriculture, Nature and Food Quality as panel leader, which means that the Netherlands has an officially recognized panel for the first time. ,,In collaboration with the Olive Oil Institute, we use an electric nose, with which we can measure specific components of olive oil – a unique method. I would like to work with supermarkets to guarantee quality.”
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Finally: what can consumers themselves pay attention to?
1. The color says nothing about the quality, but you can smell it, according to Christiaans. Good oil smells fresh (of freshly cut grass, flowers, tropical fruits).
2. A musty, moldy smell means don’t buy.
2. If the oil tastes bitter (on the back of the tongue) and is sharp in the throat, in proportion to the fruitiness, that’s a very good sign.
3. Buying olive oil in a transparent bottle is allowed, as long as you keep it well out of the sun, but rather not, according to Christiaans.
4. Good olive oil is not greasy, but it can taste ‘greasy’, as long as it remains ‘freshly greasy’.
5. Check the date. Always buy as far as possible, you never have to buy oil that is older than a year, because then there has already been a new crop.
6. Note the price: ,,If it seems too good to be true … it’ is too good to be true”, says Christian.
7. Read the label: an Italian olive oil should have ‘Made in Italy’ on the bottle. If you really want to assume it is good oil, look at the EU labels PDO and IGP. They (usually) guarantee quality.”
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