New York returns to fashion shows, awaiting MET gala

Between notable returns, such as Thom Browne or Altuzarra, and iconic sets, New York Fashion Week spring-summer 2022, which ended on Sunday, returned for the first time to physical parades after eighteen months of almost hiatus. total due to Covid-19.

Here are some highlights.

– Tell me where you parade –

After two editions dominated by virtual parades, because of the Covid-19, the creators took advantage of the richness of the decorations offered by New York for the return of the public.

Thus, LaQuan Smith, one of the figures among the emerging black designers, offered himself the luxury of a parade at the Empire State Building, playing the card of glamor and sensuality, between short dresses and bare shoulders.

But for this first Fashion Week returning to a little normality since the coronavirus pandemic, the call of green and nature was especially felt.

A cheerfully messy show in an urban vegetable garden for Collina Strada, who claims more sustainable fashion, with lots of recycled materials, or a more classic parade for Ulla Johnson, at the Brooklyn Botanic Garden.

On Sunday, the Tory Burch show took place in a recreated fruit and flower market setting in one of New York’s chicest parts of Soho, right outside a designer store. Between impeccable apple stalls and booksellers’ tables, her collection, a tribute to American designer Claire McCardell, celebrated as usual an elegant and determined woman.

– Le conte musicial by Thom Browne –

For several years, Thom Browne has preferred Paris for its parades. But this time, he wanted to make a detour through New York. He explained that it was a way of supporting the exhibition on American fashion (“In America: a lexicon of fashion”) which opens Saturday at the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art (MET), and whose commissioner, Andrew Bolton, is his companion.

Saturday, for this collection, he offered a musical tale, where each model, man or woman, was as much the character of a story as a model.

In an enchanted but somewhat disturbing garden, with a background sound of a small music box, a sober gray to often dominated, on overlays of coat, jacket, skirt and pants. But to this sobriety of color were added the flowers painted on the faces or hanging from the hair.

– The return of Altuzarra –

Also gone to parade in Paris where he grew up, Joseph Altuzarra also returned to New York, where his parade, opened by star Gigi Hadid, gave pride of place to flower ornaments and lace necklaces on Sunday.

“I wanted to be part of this renaissance of the New York scene and New York as a city, and I thought returning from my show was the best way for me to be a part of that,” he said. he explained this week. And to add: “there is a freedom and an openness in New York and in the community of the fashion here which does not exist elsewhere”.

– After the parades, fashion continues at the museum –

On Sunday evening, the Tom Ford parade closed a series of around 90 presentations throughout the week.

But New York museums continue to celebrate fashion. At the Brooklyn Museum, an exhibition on French fashion designer Christian Dior has just started.

On Saturday, the Met opens the first chapter of its major retrospective on American fashion. In this context, a Met gala, the great New York social gathering, an opportunity for brands to dress the stars who parade on the red carpet, is held Monday evening, after being canceled in May because of the Covid. Tradition has it that the dress code is tied to the theme of the upcoming Met show. This year, the gala also aims to rejuvenate its image, with singer Billie Eilish, actor Timothée Chalamet, poet Amanda Gorman and tennis player Naomi Osaka as co-chairs.

– .