Mauricio Giovanini, between haute cuisine, grill and Latin bites – Vivir

Pilar Salas

A “modern grill” with the essence of who carries it in his blood, the Argentine Mauricio Giovanini, with a Michelin star in Messina (Marbella, Malaga), is what Bar de Fuegos proposes, which opens this Monday in Madrid and that combines with the new season of its Latin bistro in Ibiza.

“He had been wanting to grill for years”, acknowledges in an interview with Efe this Cordovan who arrived in Marbella in 2002 – “from there they don’t even move me with sticks”, he asserts – not fleeing from the “corralito” but attracted Spanish gastronomic revolution and creators like Adrià, Subijana, Arzak and Berasategui; although his idols are not culinary, but sports: Rafa Nadal and Roger Federer.

In less than a year he had opened with his wife, Pía Ninci as head of the room, Messina, with a Michelin star since 2016, whose name honors his maternal grandparents through the Sicilian city where they were born.

In that restaurant he offers “super-free” cuisine because he hates “ties and fashions.” “That has given us a personality, our style, with which I want to be identified over time,” he says.

An expert in the management of essential vegetable juices, in Messina he proposes dishes such as sabayon soup with onion and black beans, crayfish with its emulsion, clams and “foie”; “breast” of cured duck, chili cream and poultry broth; grilled red mullet with vegetables and citrus juice, and roasted red apple ice cream, borracho and odorous sponge cake.

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