The Swiss climber Marco Müller secures the second ascent of the 9a route Oblivion in Gimmelwald. Alex Rohr first climbed this line in autumn 2022 after his successful trip to Norway.
Gimmelwald in the Bernese Oberland stands for tough sport climbing routes. Alex Rohr created one of them in 2022 with the combination of Alpenbitter and Renardo Rules: Oblivion (9a). Marco Müller was able to score the line recently and thus secure the second ascent.
Video: This is how Marco Müller climbs Oblivion (9a)
I’m super happy that I was able to climb the route to Alex Rohr in second place.
Marco Mueller
Oblivion (9a) becomes a mental game
However, the first repetition of the line was not an easy game for him, says Marco Müller. On the contrary: “I had to invest quite a lot of work.” After he fell out several times at the end of the four-move crux, the mental game began.
“The relief was all the greater when I was finally able to make the last key move and climb the route.” According to Marco Müller, the crux of Oblivion lies in the traverse between the 8c+/9a route Alpenbitter and the 8c/8c+ line Renardo Rules. And this traverse has it all: tricky heelhocks, bad finger holes and complex body positions await.
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Credits: cover photo Marco Mueller
2023-08-07 08:07:48
#Marco #Müller #Oblivion #mental #struggle #Video
