Many good approaches can be seen in the new Bridge restaurant

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  Wolfgang Fassbender

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The people of Zurich have been discussing the new enjoyment project called Bridge for a few days: on April 8, the middle thing consisting of a food court and delicatessen shop was opened. A visit is definitely worth it, even if there is one or the other detail to improve.

For months, Zurich suspected that something new and big would be emerging on Europaallee, and now it’s there: that Migros Zurich food conceptthat combines delicatessen shopping with on-site enjoyment. In normal times you can make yourself comfortable at chic tables, now take-away is the order of the day.

But that doesn’t mean that the visit isn’t worth it. But on the contrary. One is glad that the quarter is getting a little more lively; Up until now, Europaallee sometimes looked sterile, especially on cool days. On the day of my test, of course, I perceive people standing or sitting everywhere in the orbit of the main train station, feeding themselves from a box or bowl from the Bridge.

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Excellent coffee and bread from the cult baker

The first impression is convincing – at least in part. The complex is colorful, and not only because of the many balloons that were draped over the entrance to mark the opening. It’s also colorful inside and it’s pretty tight too. I notice it from the first few meters.

If before the Vicafe-The counter (known for the actually very good coffee) four people queue up, bridge customers entering slalom. I don’t know whether this is due to the current pandemic situation or whether it was planned from the outset: the situation is definitely not optimal.

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The cakes and desserts, which can be found to the right of the entrance, also suffer as a result. You hardly notice them, which is especially true for the great creations of the Zurich patisserie Honey Bread applies. The baguettes from the cult baker Seri Wada are even better to see. The newcomer to the Zurich baking scene, who helped raise the bread culture on the Limmat to a new level, is personally present on this day and briefs his employees.

Peruvian delicacies as a pop-up

It gets exciting on the upper floor. The vegan curry from the Tokyo Express (22 francs) is rather average. The rice is cooked too far, the vegetables are irrelevant, you have to look for the tofu cubes. The sushi tasted here (Rainbow Roll at CHF 11.95) are more popular, but they are still a bit away from reference quality.

The Peruvian specialties, the so-called. Bistro are offered. At this place, changing chefs are supposed to provide culinary entertainment. The team from Emilio Espinosa Schwarz, probably the best Peruvian chef in the country. His chaufa with a crispy, juicy pork belly (21 francs) almost knocks me out, and the so-called Causa Salmon (15 francs) is also a lot of fun. Avocado, salmon, a perfectly cooked quail egg: it couldn’t be fresher.

The pizza is good, but the Bridge could show a little more courage

The two tasted pizza slices from the Flour & Water are also recommended. Cime di Rapa (Fr. 8.30) and Mediterranea (Fr. 7.10) are on display alongside other varieties, are put into the oven for a short time after ordering and then packed in cardboard boxes. The dough is fluffy and crispy, the topping juicy. Fine – but not high end.

That’s exactly what I want more of in the future of the Bridge. And best of all a little extra courage. On my tour of the food project, I did not find such smart snacks as Stefan Heilemann is currently serving in the “Wirtschaft zur Schtund”. Instead of relying on sushi like elsewhere, one should dare to try even more real innovations here. But maybe that’s exactly what is being planned – in the time after the catering restrictions have been lifted.