In a world in which ‘clean beauty’ reigns supreme, it is increasingly difficult to determine what you can use and what not. But is it all so black and white? Research doctor Jetske Ultee and experience expert Tiffany Masterson explain which ingredients are best avoided. “Perfume is aggressive and takes the place of ingredients that are just good for the skin.”
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If we believe the internet, cosmetics are packed with toxic substances. This is of course not true, but the fact is that many products contain ingredients that do nothing good, confirms research doctor Jetske Ultee. “And yes, sometimes also substances that can ultimately even be harmful, for example because they cause irritation. And chronic irritation makes your skin age faster.”
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Expert by experience is Tiffany Masterson. After years of skin problems, she developed a brand herself that deleted all questionable ingredients. It was the beginning of Drunk Elephant, and the world was clearly waiting for it, as her brainchild became wildly popular in no time. She herself prefers not to speak of ‘bad’ or ‘toxic’ but of ‘suspicious’: not convicted, but suspicious. “Those substances are not dangerous per se, but can disrupt the protective layer or functions of the skin. However, is that always the case with everyone? No.” Think of it like a FODMAP diet: by (temporarily) banning certain ingredients, you discover what you can’t stand and you can transform your skin. But, which ingredients are those, and are they by definition problematic?
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(Read more below the photo.)
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1. Essential Oils
Essential oils have no benefit other than their fragrance. On the contrary, the only thing they are good at is irritating, Tiffany Masterson tells me. “It has now been described that 79 essential oils can provoke unpleasant reactions,” confirms Jetske Ultee. “In addition, citrus varieties are phototoxic: when you put them in the sun, they can cause invisible damage.”
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To replace? The less the better. The exception is tea tree oil. Jetske: “This has an anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and yeast-killing effect. But be really careful with it and always use it diluted!”
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2. Alcohol
Tiffany: “Alcohol denat, SD alcohol, ethanol, ethyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and isopropyl alcohol dry out the skin.” Alcohol evaporates quickly, which dries out your skin, explains Jetske. “It also dissolves the natural fats in your protective layer. And it is precisely these natural fats that prevent moisture from escaping from the skin and that irritants can damage your skin. They are often used in cleansers and toners especially for oily skin with pimples. Such a pity! The only thing you achieve is that the skin becomes more sensitive to unrest.”
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To replace? You have alcohol and alcohol, Jetske Ultee smiles: “There are also fatty alcohols and they do exactly the opposite. They actually retain moisture in the skin, making it softer. You can use cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, benehyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol with confidence.”
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People think that mineral filters ‘physically’ block UV rays as a shield, while chemical filters absorb the radiation.
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3. Silicone
You hear about silicones that they clog the skin and cause pimples. Tiffany Masterson also resolutely removed them from the ingredients list. According to Jetske Ultee, however, they mainly have an image problem. “Silicones do indeed put a layer over the skin, but they don’t seal your skin. They are non-comedogenic – which means that they do not clog the sebaceous glands – and have a structure that can best be compared to that of a gauze. Because of this structure, they are never completely opaque or closed. It is not without reason that silicones are also used in the treatment of burns: they protect, retain moisture and reduce the risk of infections. And very important: they do not irritate the skin. In make-up, silicones ensure that everything fuses nicely with the skin for an even and smooth effect.”
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To replace? That is not necessary for your skin. Jetske Ultee: “Clean well to prevent dirt and sebum from remaining on the skin and thus clogging pores. But that always applies, even if you wouldn’t use anything.”
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4. Chemical filters
Chemical sunscreens belong on the list of cautions, according to Tiffany: “Usually they are not a problem, but for acne, rosacea or sensitive skin, mineral is better.”
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You can’t say that so firmly, says Jetske Ultee. There are good and less good filters in both categories. “People think that mineral filters ‘physically’ block UV rays as a shield, while chemical filters absorb the radiation. Hence the idea that sensitive skin is better off with a mineral cream. But that’s not true: the effect of physical and chemical filters actually doesn’t differ that much. Mineral filters also absorb radiation, albeit through metal oxide instead of carbon. In addition, they can also reflect UV radiation, but in fact they absorb more.”
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To replace? It is better to skip some sun filters. Jetske Ultee: “There are filters that, strangely enough, cannot withstand sunlight well and thus cause skin problems. Others may cause free radical formation or skin irritation. And there are old sunscreens that we now know that they penetrate too far into your body and may have a hormone-disrupting effect. Not recommended are: oxybenzone, sulisobenzone, enzacamene, homosalate, oxtinoxate, octocrylene, padimate O and amiloxate.”
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Perfume is aggressive and takes the place of ingredients that are just good for the skin.
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5. Parfum
Tiffany Masterson: “Perfume is aggressive and takes the place of ingredients that are just good for the skin.” Jetske Ultee agrees that that fine smell is the number one in causing allergies. “If you regularly use products with perfume, you run the risk of irritation, allergic reactions and contact dermatitis. In addition, fragrances can react with sunlight and thus accelerate the aging of the skin or cause pigmentation spots. You will find them on the ingredients list as ‘perfume’ or ‘fragrance’. Producers do not have to indicate which fragrances they have added, because that would make the list too long. So one small jar can contain an enormous amount of perfume.”
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To replace? Yes, including natural perfumes. Jetske Ultee: “Green fragrances – such as lavender or jasmine – can irritate the skin just as well.”
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6. SLS
Tiffany Masterson: “SLS – known as Sodium Lauryl Sulfate – is a harsh wash that strips your skin, causes inflammation and damages the skin barrier.” Jetske Ultee: “Of all washing materials, this one probably causes the most problems.” SLS is so irritating that it is used in studies to affect small patches of skin, so that the calming effect of another product can be tested afterwards.
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To replace? Yes, but do not confuse with SLES or Sodium Laureth Sulfate. Jetske Ultee: “It’s only a print, but that ingredient is immediately a lot milder.”
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Something to think about?
If substances are problematic, why are they in our cream? Jetske Ultee: “To extend the shelf life or to dissolve ingredients, or simply to reduce costs. Sometimes they break the skin a little on purpose so that other active ingredients can penetrate more deeply. And sometimes you are deliberately fooled. Creams that promise to smooth out crow’s feet in one go contain glue-like substances — which are also used to waterproof concrete floors or flower pots — for a tightening effect. However, that is temporary and also very bad.”
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These toppers are completely safe:
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1. Paula’s Choice, Peptide Booster, 59 euros with paulaschoice.be
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2. By dr. Jetske Ultee, Moisturizer, 49.95 euros with dr-jetskeultee-skincare.be
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3. time shield, Active Relief Serum, 69 euros at the pharmacy
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4. Drunk Elephant, TLC Raspberry Glycolic Night Serum, 87 euros at HERE PARIS XL
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5. Bioderma, Sensibio Defensive, 19.99 euros at the pharmacy
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6. Naive, Restorative all-in-one cream, 12.95 euros with naifcare.com
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7. The Ordinary, Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA, 6.50 euros with HERE PARIS XL
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Also read:
A beauty mask for your buttocks? ‘Butt masks’ are on the rise and these are the 5 best
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