Making beer in the land of champagne. What seemed like heresy a few years ago is now more accepted. The department now has 27 craft breweries. From there to say that there is no longer any difficulty? Brewers from the Reims and Épernay sectors share their feelings.
UFOs…
Installing its brewery in the heart of the vineyard, several brewers have made this bet a few years ago. This was the case of Nicolas Forget whose microbrewery, Lucida, was established in March 2018 in the village of Ludes, on the foothills of the Montagne de Reims. At the time, “There were questions and reluctance. We wondered why I was making beer when you can make champagne, especially since I come from a family of winegrowers”he mentioned in our columns in April.
On the other side of the massif, in the Agéenne brasserie in Aÿ, Jérôme Houry remembers “the days when my friends brought champagne when we went out. I was the only one to bring a bottle of beer and it was a bit frowned upon”.
If this kind of reflection is still relevant, “Attitudes are changing”observe the two Marnais.
… now admitted
Arrived six years ago in Mancy and settled in Épernay for a year, the Tête de Chou brewery has experienced fewer pitfalls to find a place for itself. “We’ve never had too much difficulty setting up in the region. There has always been a very warm welcome from the winegrowers and we work with them during the harvest. In general, they buy us beers and printers for the end of the day”, explains co-founder Ariane Abrard. According to her, the malty and hoppy beverage would have even seduced these fans of sparkling wine. “Some winegrowers want to drink something other than champagne and vice versa, we also like to drink champagne. »
An observation to which Nicolas Forget subscribes: “A lot of winegrowers drink beer. It’s less alcoholic and lends itself well to a barbecue with friends. » Better, some wine professionals would even promote the hopped beverage: “They like to present local beer after visiting the cellarsassures the manager of the Tête de Chou. Beer is not at all competitive with champagne, but rather complementary. »
First of all, the price of the bottles is not comparable. Beer is often more affordable. Beyond the financial aspect, that of taste is also very different. In this regard, the Champenois would be a little behind. “Unlike other regions such as the North or the South-West, the locals do not have the culture of beer”says Jason Cuny, head of the fledgling Wild Badgers Brewery. “Some people find the beer a bit bland because it has less bubbles than champagne […] But it’s not the same product so there’s no point in comparing. » For the entrepreneur, the sinews of war is to continue to teach.
Educate the palaces
Far from the blond-white-brown triptych served by industrialists in the sector, beer offers an almost infinite combination of blends. A space of freedom in which many neo-brewers rush. It is no longer uncommon to see artisanal beverages with notes of coffee, citrus fruits or even ice cream.
Especially since these technicians have acquired skills. “Whether the local beer could be perceived as too strong or too bitter now depends on the will of the brewer. In the Agéenne brewery, I make fairly light and easy-to-drink beers. Craft beer can also aim for aroma rather than bitterness”, agrees Jérôme Houry. A variety conducive to attracting a wider audience. It is indeed difficult not to find what you are looking for in this string of creations.
It is in this perspective of education and sharing of knowledge that another foam manufacturer: Yves Leboeuf (brasserie Senses Brewing in Reims) created the “Bière social club” a few years ago. These meetings brought together 150 to 200 people every three to four months in a different place with “music, beer and cheese”.
By dint of initiatives and stubbornness, craft beers are slowly but surely carving out a place in the Marne stalls. Specialized bars are taking over the centers of our champagne capitals and after Épernay, it’s Reims’ turn to host its beer festival (see elsewhere). “These are beautiful front doors. It can only reinforce the emulsion around the beer »welcomes Jason Cuny.
The artisan-brewer is convinced that beer has a card to play in the land of champagne. “The barley we consume is produced locally, which is a big plus. » However, there is still a long way to go for “sell volume in Reims”. Bars don’t always want to break the standard contract they have with the distribution giants. “Especially since we cannot compete with the prices charged by the industrial sector”recognizes the Rémois.
As for tourists, “they come for the champagne”. Nevertheless, “Champagne will always be king but beer can find a place”, Jason Cuny and his colleagues are convinced of this. “And why not develop beer hikes in our area or even a beer route in addition to the champagne route”suggests, enthusiastically, the latter.
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