excuse the words, but with about five hundred inhabitants and an area of 5 km², the Truiense sub-municipality of Kerkom is what is commonly referred to as a farmer’s hole in Flanders. Or a handkerchief, if you will. Well, that unsightly village brews a beer that’s on the map of New York’s Eleven Madison Park, voted the best restaurant in the world in 2017. The Bloesem Bink (33 cl) is offered for 14 euros.
You can also taste that seasonal beer at the place of origin for a more democratic price. Belgian Beer Café is a nice concept by the Limburg design agency Creneau International, but you will not find a browner version of the Belgian cafes from the interwar period than the brasserie of Brouwerij Kerkom. Wood stove, vintage cafe tables, wooden floor: the noun fun seems invented here.
Spotnaam
“That is part of the classic style of our beers,” says Marc Limet. He took over the brewery, founded in 1878, from Jean Clerinx, grandson of the founder, 23 years ago. “In 1968 he closed the brewery to work for competitor Alken, but when he retired he started a new, smaller brewery. He brewed a dark blond top-fermented beer with a bitter taste. He called it Bink, the nickname of the Truienaars.”
“I happened to see a broadcast of Bouquet of Flanders, the popular BRT program presented by Gerty Christoffels. Out of curiosity I drove to Kerkom to taste that beer. I immediately had a wow feeling, exactly what I wanted. I went back regularly and befriended Jean, who at one point asked me if I wanted to take over the brewery.”
“For me it was the fulfillment of a small dream. When I was a kid, all my friends drank lager except me and my best friend. We liked white and amber colored beers. I became so fascinated by Belgian beers that it became a hobby that got out of hand. I started brewing myself in a ten liter soup kettle, but that was not drinkable. I think I have come a long way in the meantime.” (laughs)
Tasted by our culinary reviewer Rudi Smeets: Winterkoninkske Grand Cru
© Luc Daelemans
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The Winterkoninkske is – next to the Bloesem Bink – the second seasonal beer of the Kerkom brewery. Twelve years ago Marc Limet launched a more alcoholic version of it: the Winterkoninkske Grand Cru, a heavy dark beer that is best not left behind like a lager on a summer terrace. After all, the alcohol percentage is 13%. You don’t drink it, you taste it. To achieve that high percentage, brewer’s yeast is used in combination with champagne yeast. By using different types of dark malt you can taste notes of chocolate, coffee and sherry. “The best winter beer in Limburg” – dixit Marc Limet – is only available per bottle of 75 cl.
Nice with? The Winterkoninkske Grand Cru goes well with game dishes and stews, as a replacement for a complex red wine. Chocolate desserts are also possible, as are ham with sauerkraut and black tripe with applesauce and baby potatoes.
Price? ± 10 euro
For sale? In beverage plants (see website) or in the brewery
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