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Appeal by the Italian fashion industry: restrictions have to be relaxed


Representatives of the Italian fashion industry are appealing to the government to ease the production restrictions imposed by the coronavirus crisis. They warn that the industry could suffer irreparable damage if production is not restarted as soon as possible.

Photo: Reuters

“Fashion is a seasonal industry and some dates simply cannot be moved. If we are unable to resume operations shortly, it will cost the industry almost an annual turnover,” said Carlo Capasa, chairman of the Italian fashion chamber CNMI in an online interview with the daily Corriere della Sera.

The lockdown rules introduced in Italy are valid until May 3rd. The country was particularly hard hit by the coronavirus pandemic, with only more patients diagnosed with the disease in the United States and Spain.

The government has released no details of when and how the nationwide ban on business for non-vital companies will be eased.

Fashion and fabric factories across the country have had to close because they do not fall into the vital business category.

Many brands have switched their production to medical equipment products such as masks and gowns to meet the needs that have exploded due to the crisis.

With sales of EUR 95 billion and 600,000 employees, the Italian fashion and fabric industry is the second largest industry in the country. Italy accounts for 41 percent of European industry activity, followed by Germany with a market share of 11 percent. Carlo Capasa suggested that production be gradually ramped up again from April 20 in order to be able to deliver the autumn / winter collections to stores worldwide in good time and to start producing the spring / summer collections.

“We are closed, but other countries such as France, Spain, Portugal and Turkey are slowly reopening,” said Claudio Marenzi, who is responsible for fashion at the Confindustria business lobby. The ban also has a negative impact on Italy as a supplier.

“This means that some brands may switch to a different supply chain. In Italy, the majority of these are small companies. And if one has to close, the know-how will be irrevocably lost,” he added. Confindustria Moda represents 65,000 companies in the fabric, fashion and accessories industry. These are mainly small companies with 15 to 20 employees, whose turnover is heavily dependent on foreign buyers.

Claudio Marenzi said Confindustria Moda had signed an agreement with the unions that would put in place strict health and safety measures for all manufacturing sites if work could be resumed.

The agreement “shows that entrepreneurs and workers are pulling together to resume business and save the Italian fashion industry.”

“An economic epidemic could do more long-term and permanent damage than the health epidemic. If we have to live with this virus for so long, let us deal with it,” added Claudio Marenzi. Because if the industry could produce protective masks and gowns with complete security, it could also produce clothes.

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