Climbers Secure Maiden World Cup Golds in Madrid Thriller
Sanders and Lee Reach New Heights in Tense Finals
The IFSC Climbing World Cup in Madrid has crowned two new champions in the Lead discipline, with Annie Sanders of the USA and Lee Dohyun from South Korea clinching their first-ever World Cup victories after nail-biting final rounds.
Sanders Ascends to Historic Victory
Annie Sanders etched her name in climbing history, topping the challenging final route to secure her maiden Lead World Cup title. The only climber to achieve a full ascent, Sanders displayed remarkable composure under pressure, her emotion evident as she clipped the final hold. This victory marks a significant achievement in her burgeoning career.
“I’m honestly still in shock right now, I’m super excited to have executed well enough to win the gold. I didn’t know what to expect at the beginning of the season, but after the first Lead World Cup in China I know I was capable of doing this, and I’m glad it finally happened.”
—Annie Sanders
Behind Sanders, Laura Rogora of Italy claimed the silver medal with a score of 48+, narrowly missing the top hold. Brooke Raboutou of the USA also reached the same height, securing bronze based on her superior semi-final performance. This is Raboutou’s first World Cup podium appearance since Villars in 2023.
Erin McNeice of Great Britain finished fourth, followed by Manon Hily (France) in fifth and Rosa Rekar (Slovenia) in sixth. Last week’s Chamonix winner, Seo Chaehyun (South Korea), encountered an early slip to finish seventh, with Heloïse Doumont (Belgium) in eighth.
For the complete women’s Lead final results, you can view them here.
Dramatic Men’s Final Sees Lee Dohyun Triumph
In a thrilling men’s competition, South Korea’s Lee Dohyun, starting from sixth in the semi-finals, delivered a stellar performance to clinch his first Lead World Cup gold. His score of 40+ narrowly edged out Spain’s Alberto Ginés López, who finished with 40 points, a testament to the intense competition.
“This feels unreal, I can’t believe it. I’m just happy! When I finished my climb, I didn’t think it was worth a gold medal, I would have expected fourth or fifth. It was a good experience for me. At the end of the Boulder season I was a bit confused, I was disappointed in myself for my results in finals. I started thinking about how to improve myself, everyday, also in Lead, I tried and did my best. Now I’m happy.”
—Lee Dohyun
Despite the close call, Alberto Ginés López extended his podium streak to five consecutive Lead competitions this season, maintaining his lead in the overall Men’s Lead World Cup standings. His consistent performance highlights a strong season, reflecting the growing depth in international sport climbing. For instance, climbers often train for over 20 hours a week to achieve such consistency (UKClimbing).
Yoshida Satone of Japan secured the bronze medal with 39+. His consistent season, with no result lower than fourth in Lead events, saw him add another podium finish after qualifying first for the final. Colin Duffy from the USA matched Satone’s score but placed fourth due to a lower semi-final ranking.
Japanese climbers Anraky Sorato, Omata Shion, and Suzuki Neo finished in fifth, sixth, and seventh positions respectively. Debut finalist Jakub Konecny of Czechia rounded out the field in eighth.
For the complete men’s Lead final results, please click here.
Lead World Cup Season Nears Climax
With the Madrid event concluded, the IFSC Lead World Cup season is now just one stop away from determining its overall champions. The next and final event is scheduled for Koper, Slovenia, on July 5th and 6th.
Following this, the focus shifts to the Youth World Championships in Helsinki, Finland, running from July 28th to August 3rd. Stay updated on all IFSC events and results via the official IFSC website and their extensive social media channels.
