Record-Breaking Waves Measured from Space Reveal New Insights into Storm Energy
From orbit,the European Space Agency (ESA) has captured data on the largest average wave height observed in over a decade – nearly 20 meters (66 feet) – generated by Hurricane Eddie in December 2024. This measurement, made possible by the advanced Surface Water and Ocean Topography mission (SWOT) satellite, is challenging long-held assumptions about how energy is distributed within ocean waves and could significantly improve predictions of coastal erosion and storm damage.
For decades, scientists believed that the longest ocean swells carried the most energy as they traveled across vast distances. However, analysis of data from SWOT, alongside Sentinel-6 and 30 years of historical satellite observations, reveals that a storm’s dominant peak waves actually contain more energy than previously thought. This finding has implications for coastal communities,ocean engineering,and the accuracy of future storm forecasting.
Hurricane Eddie, peaking on December 21, 2024, generated waves that traveled over 24,000 kilometers (15,000 miles) for more than 15 days. By studying these swells, researchers were able to gain unprecedented insight into the dynamics of the storm itself.
“It turns out that more energy is packed into the storm’s dominant peak waves, not the longest swells,” the study reports. This finding is critical becuase wave energy directly influences coastline erosion rates,the durability of offshore structures,and the potential for damage during extreme weather events.
The ESA’s use of advanced satellite technology like SWOT is providing a new outlook on ocean behavior,moving beyond traditional measurement limitations and offering a more comprehensive understanding of the forces shaping our planet’s coastlines.