A rare culinary residency bringing the flavors of Tokyo’s celebrated Serininkan pizzeria to New York City began this week at Sake No Hana on the Bowery, marking a unique cultural exchange between the two metropolises.
The residency, which is not a typical pop-up but rather a carefully cultivated collaboration, features the distinct style of Serininkan, a cult favorite pizzeria in Tokyo’s Nakameguro neighborhood. Chefs Jason Hall and Yoshi Kojima, who established Serininkan during a 2022 trip to Japan, are spearheading the project alongside the Sake No Hana team.
The foundation for this exchange was laid during the height of the COVID-19 pandemic. Hall and Kojima, on a special visa trip facilitated by Niigata, dined at Seirinkan in 2022, deeply impressed by the restaurant’s commitment to simplicity and attention to detail. “We ate at Seirinkan as guests together in 2022 in the middle of the pandemic on a special visa during a trip provided by Niigata, and we were impressed at his simplicity and attention to detail and overall vibe,” they recalled.
From that initial experience, the chefs began exploring how to translate the essence of Serininkan to New York. “We always looked at finding a way to bring him to New York and share that experience with our guests at Sake No Hana,” they said. The blending of a Tokyo pizzeria within a modern Japanese kitchen proved surprisingly seamless, rooted in a shared philosophy of prioritizing pure, high-quality ingredients. “Very easy,” they explained. “We have all the same principles of pure ingredients; Japanese food and Italian food have the same approach to high-quality ingredients simply prepared.”
The collaboration has unfolded with a “synergy” that surprised even the chefs involved. The Seirinkan team expressed enthusiasm for New York City and appreciation for the opportunity to function with Tao Group. “We took our time over the last few years to develop a trusting relationship,” they noted, a patience evident in the execution of the residency.
The menu reflects this cross-cultural dialogue. Dishes like Hamachi Crudo and Wafu Carbonara, incorporating Japanese ingredients into Italian frameworks, were specifically highlighted by Chef Susumu Kakinuma of Serininkan. A featured menu includes Octopus, Fiji White Pizza, Marinara Pizza, Wafu Carbonara, Broccoli, and a dessert dubbed “Toromisu,” designed to provide a progression from light, oceanic flavors to a rich finish.
Even as sake is available, the team has also focused on showcasing Brooklyn breweries, reflecting Chef Kakinuma’s interest in the local beer culture. “Chef Susumu Kakinuma was more interested in local beer culture,” the chefs stated, emphasizing the intention to connect with New York’s culinary landscape.
The chefs are keen to emphasize that this is not simply Neapolitan pizza transported to a new location. “First of all,” they explain, “It’s Tokyo Pizza!” They draw parallels between the importance of rice in sushi and flour in their pizza, highlighting a shared dedication to foundational ingredients.
This residency is part of a larger vision for Sake No Hana, which aims to regularly feature leading chefs and artisans from Tokyo. “We’ve always had in mind to bring the best-in-class chefs and artisans from Tokyo and feature them at Sake no Hana, which ties back to our concept of bringing the tastes of Tokyo to New York,” the chefs said. They point to Japan’s success in authentically interpreting and elevating European cuisines, particularly Italian pizza, as a model. “They hold the culture’s history in high regard, committing themselves to the craft with a relentless drive for incremental perfection,” they added. “Rather than trying to ‘elevate’ pizza, the Japanese approach was to deeply internalize its traditions and then redefine them through their own unique lens.”
The residency, they believe, taps into a growing desire for authenticity among diners. “Guests are gravitating back to food that thrives on authenticity,” they observed. The event is described as a “one-of-a-kind product that you can only secure either in Tokyo or next week at Sake no Hana!”
Sake No Hana is located at 145 Bowery.
