French people buy less new clothes

Restructuring of the signs, closing of points of sale, tendency to of consumption "... The decline in the clothing market is expected to continue in 2019.

Winter sales starting Wednesday, January 9 will they make up for the shortfall in recent months? Not sure, according to Pierre Pelarrey, the general manager of the Paris department store Printemps Haussmann. Excluding the impact of the movement of yellow vests "The clothing market in 2018 accuses a severe decline of 2.9% to 28 billion euros, according to the French Institute of Fashion (IFM). After a brief upturn of 0.6% in 2017, the sector is returning to a downward trend, uninterrupted since the economic crisis of 2008.

The movement of "yellow vests" weighs on the French economy

For more than ten years, the decline of the fashion market has reached 15% in France in value, weighed down by an average annual fall of 5% of sales in the mid-range segment, ie 40% of the supply in France. the hexagon. " The sector is very fragile. Every year, we observe the restructuring of distribution networks and the closure of sales outlets Says Yohann Petiot, General Manager of the Trade Alliance. Only saved, the first price and luxury brands that increase each year by 1% and 7%, on average.

A decrease in purchasing power

" This decline is explained by the conjunction of several factors, the central element being the overall lack of dynamism of the French economy, explains Gildas Minvielle, director of the Economic Observatory at the IFM. Thus, when the purchasing power in consumption unit grew by 2% per year on average until 2007, it has only increased by 0.1% since 2008. This has a direct impact on the act of buying new clothes. "

" Fashion does not answer a functional need. Purchases are often motivated by desire and desire, Yohann Petiot adds. With the tense social climate we are experiencing, the decline in the volume of clothing sales is not surprising. "

A stall lived as " constrained For 60% of consumers. The remaining 40%, for their part, evoke a question of choice: " that of consuming less but better »,« for ecological and ethical reasons ", or " a desire to unclutter his stock ".

A trend towards "deconsumption"

In France, habits of clothing consumption are constantly evolving. " Since the Rana Plaza disaster in 2013, buyers have asked for more information about the manufacture of clothes and the working conditions of textile workers. Finally, everything that is better traceability Adds Gildas Minvielle.

Fashion, the ecological disasters of "fast fashion"

" But more generally, it's like coming to the end of a form of overconsumption "Says Thomas Delattre, project manager at the IFM. For example, 44% of consumers surveyed by the MFI said they bought less clothes in 2018, a figure of 51% for women. Young people are also participating in this trend of of consumption As 34% of them said they had reduced their purchases last year.

"The second hand is progressing"

A move that seems to benefit the market opportunity, valued at 1 billion euros, for the first time in 2018. " The second hand is growing thanks to the sales platforms between individuals "(Vinted, Leboncoin ...), observes Yohann Petiot.

For 2019, the IFM forecasts a decline in the clothing market of 0.9% in France. " We are in a situation where consumption is rather stable with small variations "Says Gildas Minvielle. But for the Trade Alliance, it is still difficult to assess the market: " it will depend on the durability of the yellow vests movement, the weather, but especially the household purchasing power. "

Romane Ganneval