The Shifting Sands of Dakhla: Tourism, Identity, and Control in Western Sahara
Dakhla, a coastal city in Western Sahara, is rapidly transforming into a haven for watersports enthusiasts, particularly kitesurfers and windsurfers. The consistent winds and expansive lagoon have drawn international attention, fueling a burgeoning tourism industry spearheaded by companies like Dakhla Attitude. Though, this economic boom is unfolding against a complex backdrop of political tension, demographic shifts, and questions of indigenous rights.
While Dakhla Attitude employs 150 people, the workforce is overwhelmingly comprised of individuals from Morocco, not the native Sahrawi population. Company founder Hassan Echarqui attributes this to a lack of interest from Sahrawis, claiming they prioritize the lucrative fishing industry, where owning a boat offers greater financial rewards. He further suggests that many Sahrawis profit from renting properties to the influx of newcomers. This narrative, though, clashes sharply with a 2023 UN Human Rights Council report.
The UN report details systemic discrimination against Sahrawis by the Moroccan state, hindering their access to government employment.This discrimination extends to the private sector, dominated by Moroccan entrepreneurs who, according to the report, perpetuate a policy of prioritizing Moroccan workers. Consequently, Sahrawis face significant barriers to entering the labor market and are “disproportionately affected by poverty.” This has led to a dramatic demographic change; a 2004 study by American professor Jacob Mundy estimated that Moroccan settlers already comprised 75-80% of Western Sahara’s population. The Sahrawis are becoming a minority in their own land.
The Moroccan government actively promotes this shift, viewing tourism as a key driver of economic growth in the region. This is evidenced by the recent expansion of Dakhla’s airport, facilitated by the arrival of Ryanair, which now operates direct flights to Madrid and Lanzarote. The airline’s CEO, Eddie Wilson, publicly affirmed Dakhla’s status as part of Morocco, a statement welcomed by Moroccan authorities. While the financial details remain undisclosed, it’s widely suspected that the flights are heavily subsidized by the Moroccan National Tourist Board, demonstrating a clear commitment to attracting foreign investment and tourists.
This deliberate promotion of Dakhla as a Moroccan destination is visually reinforced through an overwhelming display of national symbols. The city is saturated with Moroccan flags – adorning buildings, lining streets, and filling public spaces. The constant presence of the flag, often accompanied by portraits of King mohamed VI, creates a pervasive sense of Moroccan sovereignty. Visitors like Fernando Alcalá from Madrid find themselves unsure of the region’s true identity, noting the ubiquitous Moroccan flag despite acknowledging the area’s contested status as Western Sahara. Even those familiar with Morocco,like Youssef Nesmy from Ghent,are struck by the sheer density of the flags,suggesting a deliberate attempt to solidify control and erase any ambiguity about the region’s affiliation.
The story of Dakhla is a microcosm of the larger struggle for Western Sahara, where economic development is intertwined with political control, and the indigenous population faces increasing marginalization in their own homeland. The winds that draw tourists to its shores also carry the weight of a contested history and an uncertain future.
