luxe

After Asia, America. Olivier Bron has been made official by the Macy’s group as the new general manager of Bloomingdale’s stores. He will take up his position in November and report to Tony Spring, the president and CEO of the Macy’s group since last March. Former director of operations for the Galeries Lafayette group, Olivier Bron came to Thailand to manage the Central and Robinson department stores there. is a little over two years old.Olivier Bron – Macy’s “In Olivier, we have found an authentic and charismatic leader who understands and appreciates the culture of Bloomingdale’s, its unique positioning in the market and its unrivaled multi-category assortment, said Tony Spring in a statement.

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© 2023 FashionNetwork.com

#Bloomingdales #entrusted #Olivier #Bron

Par

AFP

Published on

10 sept. 2023

New York, September 9, 2023 (AFP) – With a dozen shows per day at least until Wednesday, the American megacity opens the spring-summer 2024 fashion weeks, before London, then the most popular Milan and Paris .

See the showHelmut Lang – Spring-Summer2024 – Womenswear – United States – New York – © Launchmetrics

The official program offers a wealth of young talents and emerging brands, among established names and a handful of heavyweights (Ralph Lauren, Michael Kors, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Altuzarra, Gabriela Hearst, Carolina Herrera, Tory Burch, Luar ).

This recipe allows New York to remain “a cornerstone” of fashion, according to the executive director of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), Steven Kolb.

In humid, stormy heat, fashionistas began lining up at the start of the afternoon, at the foot of a glass building on the Lower East Side of Manhattan, for Helmut Lang’s return to the calendar.

The brand was in the spotlight at New York Fashion Week in the 1990s and 2000s thanks to the minimalist, and at the time innovative, aesthetic of its founder, the Austrian designer who gave it his name and left the fashion in 2005.

Today, Helmut Lang is part of the Japanese fashion giant Fast Retailing, which also owns Uniqlo.

The collection, concocted by one of the young talents of the New York scene, the couturier of Vietnamese origin Peter Do (32 years old), slipped into the heritage of the founder. Black jacket and pants sets are worn with comfort, but crossed by almost neon pink or gold-colored bands along the legs, at the belt, and across the shoulder.

Peter Do reinterprets the fundamentals, as with this denim jumpsuit, rolled up sleeves, open collar. Also a wink with its prints reminiscent of the yellow taxis of New York, on whose neon lights Helmut Lang put his name in advertising at the end of the 90s, a first for a fashion designer.

“I really want to anchor and dress New York,” said Peter Do, summing up the parade with two words often associated with the city: “chaotic and energetic.”

This season, Fashion Week takes place against the backdrop of a double strike by Hollywood screenwriters and actors for better pay. The movement has reduced the red carpets for premieres to a minimum, meaning so many lost opportunities for brands to dress stars and make it known.

But that doesn’t worry the director of the Council of American Fashion Designers.

“Red carpets are certainly a way to address the public,” puts Steven Kolb into perspective. But the fashion shows and the content broadcast by the brands on social networks will “contribute to a truly audible and visible Fashion Week”, he assures. By Andréa BAMBINO

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© 2023 Agence France-Presse
All information reproduced in this section (or on this page as the case may be) is protected by intellectual property rights held by AFP. Consequently, none of this information may be reproduced, modified, rebroadcast, translated, commercially exploited or reused in any way without the prior written consent of AFP. AFP cannot be held responsible for delays, errors, omissions which cannot be excluded, nor for the consequences of actions or transactions carried out on the basis of this information.

2023-09-10 07:37:13


#Helmut #Lang #taxi #launch #York #Fashion #Week

Par

AFP

Published on

10 sept. 2023

New York, September 9, 2023 (AFP) – With a dozen shows per day at least until Wednesday, the American megacity opens the spring-summer 2024 fashion weeks, before London, then the most popular Milan and Paris .

See the showHelmut Lang – Spring-Summer2024 – Womenswear – United States – New York – © Launchmetrics

The official program offers a wealth of young talents and emerging brands, among established names and a handful of heavyweights (Ralph Lauren, Michael Kors, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Altuzarra, Gabriela Hearst, Carolina Herrera, Tory Burch, Luar ).

This recipe allows New York to remain “a cornerstone” of fashion, according to the executive director of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), Steven Kolb.

In humid, stormy heat, fashionistas began lining up at the start of the afternoon, at the foot of a glass building on the Lower East Side of Manhattan, for Helmut Lang’s return to the calendar.

The brand was in the spotlight at New York Fashion Week in the 1990s and 2000s thanks to the minimalist, and at the time innovative, aesthetic of its founder, the Austrian designer who gave it his name and left the fashion in 2005.

Today, Helmut Lang is part of the Japanese fashion giant Fast Retailing, which also owns Uniqlo.

The collection, concocted by one of the young talents of the New York scene, the couturier of Vietnamese origin Peter Do (32 years old), slipped into the heritage of the founder. Black jacket and pants sets are worn with comfort, but crossed by almost neon pink or gold-colored bands along the legs, at the belt, and across the shoulder.

Peter Do reinterprets the fundamentals, as with this denim jumpsuit, rolled up sleeves, open collar. Also a wink with its prints reminiscent of the yellow taxis of New York, on whose neon lights Helmut Lang put his name in advertising at the end of the 90s, a first for a fashion designer.

“I really want to anchor and dress New York,” said Peter Do, summing up the parade with two words often associated with the city: “chaotic and energetic.”

This season, Fashion Week takes place against the backdrop of a double strike by Hollywood screenwriters and actors for better pay. The movement has reduced the red carpets for premieres to a minimum, meaning so many lost opportunities for brands to dress stars and make it known.

But that doesn’t worry the director of the Council of American Fashion Designers.

“Red carpets are certainly a way to address the public,” puts Steven Kolb into perspective. But the fashion shows and the content broadcast by the brands on social networks will “contribute to a truly audible and visible Fashion Week”, he assures. By Andréa BAMBINO

All rights of reproduction and representation reserved.
© 2023 Agence France-Presse
All information reproduced in this section (or on this page as the case may be) is protected by intellectual property rights held by AFP. Consequently, none of this information may be reproduced, modified, rebroadcast, translated, commercially exploited or reused in any way without the prior written consent of AFP. AFP cannot be held responsible for delays, errors, omissions which cannot be excluded, nor for the consequences of actions or transactions carried out on the basis of this information.

2023-09-10 07:37:13
#Helmut #Lang #taxi #launch #York #Fashion #Week

Translated by

Clementine Martin

Published on

6 sept. 2023

In Copenhagen, fashion has entered a new stage with the joint organization of the two most important trade fairs in the country, CIFF and Revolver, absorbed by its colleague in January 2023. The first joint edition took place from August 9 to 11 at the Bella Center, under the watchful eye of professionals in the sector. The atmosphere was lively and expectations were high for this phase of transformation. Seeing ever bigger in terms of surface area and ambition, CIFF x Revolver intends to pursue its internationalization objectives and will this week make its first trip to the United States.

CIFF x Revolver

An edition placed under the sign of pragmatism

This first edition of CIFF x Revolver would have marked the 61st for CIFF. The challenges were high: the new event had to be faithful to the two shows while finding a new common identity, attractive and stimulating for the participants. The big challenge for CIFF x Revolver: finding acceptable compromises demonstrating that the change was positive, while satisfying as many professionals as possible.

The corridors buzzing with activity and the final participation figures seem to confirm the validity of this decision. This season, the meeting recorded three times more visitors, exceeding the 17,000 people mark (including 7,000 who came to attend only the first day, in pouring rain). The Scandinavian countries were at the head of the list of participants and represented 60% of visitors, but several foreign markets were also well present, such as Germany, the United Kingdom, Benelux and France.

Over an area of ​​20,000 square meters, the show brought together more than 500 exhibiting brands, again mainly from Scandinavian countries. Then came the United Kingdom, Germany, Italy and France. Questioned by FashionNetwork.com, the organization did not wish to reveal how many companies came from each show. Once again, many Italian multi-brand boutiques were among the invited buyers. Professionals from Nordic countries, France, Asia and the United States were also present.

“This season, we have chosen to come together and welcome industry from around the world to Copenhagen. We are confident and satisfied with the salon experience created,” says Sofie Dolva with conviction. The event director was named general director of CIFF last summer, taking over from Christina Neustrup. “Everything we have done over the past six months to prepare for the show is a testament to our great pride in Danish industry and our commitment to positioning ourselves as a link between Copenhagen and the world to show what we stand for abroad and promote the incredible talents we have throughout the Nordic region,” she says. This latest edition was approached “with a new perspective to create something entirely new”.

In terms of new features, the show has undergone a small refresh intended to improve the practical side. The layout of the stands was less elaborate than what CIFF participants were accustomed to, and the area exclusively dedicated to sustainable development had been removed. Indeed, environmental responsibility is now seen as “a transversal characteristic”. The space usually dedicated to conferences had also been cut back. Ultimately, the priority was clear: adapt the format and test the participants’ response for this first step.

This new layout did not hesitate to mix the stands, more minimalist than in previous editions. The show director explains to FashionNetwork.com: “We wanted to take inspiration from the traffic at Ikea, so that all the exhibitors would be seen. We separated some of the most sought-after or well-known brands and created connecting flows between them.” The sectors were still organized by category: accessible luxury, commercial ready-to-wear, emerging talents and circular fashion, footwear, men’s ready-to-wear, streetwear, outdoor, unisex fashion and beauty. Occupied by Peclers Paris, a space was dedicated to trend analysis. On the catering side, some innovations also underlined the “desire to take care of the experience”, with the presence of the trendy Mangia gourmet space.

CIFF x Revolver

The new format merging the two shows was seen as a favorable development by Cecilia Thorsmark, the general director of Copenhagen Fashion Week which was being held at the same time. “This is a very good decision, for the industry, for the city and for the participants of Copenhagen Fashion Week. For logistical reasons, this facilitates a smoother and more consistent experience. This union will bring very positive feedback to our entire fashion sector,” assured the manager during an interview for FashionNetwork.com.

Demanding brands full of expectations

Regarding the participants’ concerns following the acquisition of Revolver by CIFF, Sofie Dolva argues: “Many of them were keen to maintain their usual location next to other brands. We tried to meet their needs while mixing the proposals to find the right balance. For this first edition, segmentation was not our priority. Above all, we wanted to ensure high traffic and a smooth traffic experience. For next season, we will learn from our experience, the feedback we get and the figures to refine the necessary details.“ The winter edition of the show will take place from January 31 to February 2, 2024.

A regular at London Fashion Week and the CIFF show, the British label Labrum occupied a central stand with a privileged location, decorated with an artistic sculpture of African inspiration. “I am very satisfied to have participated, things improve with each edition,” assures the designer and founder of the brand, Foday Dumbuya. Possible future synergies with international fashion events interest him greatly.

An optimism shared by emblematic brands at the show, such as Snow Peak, the Japanese outdoor specialist. This season, the brand opted for an outdoor space inspired by a tea/coffee room. Good humor was also present among newbie brands, such as the local jewelry label Sorelle or the phenomenon Isnurh, a premium men’s streetwear brand founded in 2017 whose stand recorded one of the highest attendances, after being noticed during the last edition of Pitti Uomo.

“This is the first time we are participating in the CIFF. Before, we exhibited at Revolver. The feelings are very positive, sincerely,” assures the Finnish firm Marimekko. Known for its bright colors and original prints, the brand had a central stand and also showed at Copenhagen Fashion Week. Other brands had chosen to participate in both events, such as TG Botanical, Holsweiler, Henrik Vibskov and Helmstedt.

Interesting shoe brands like Sebago, Pavement, Buffalo and Steve Madden were there. But the shoe sector was also represented by agencies with a permanent showroom all year round in the exhibition space. The Bella Center currently works with more than 250 showrooms, including that of the sales agency specializing in the Nordic market Norse Fashion Agency, which represents labels such as Wushu Ruyi and the Spanish Bibi Lou, Verbenas and Hoff. “It’s a very popular brand in Sweden,” assures the agency. “The show was rather quiet but Hoff came into contact with some very good customers,” she adds.

“For us it is essential to have a presence at the show in addition to the in-depth work that we do all year round in the showroom,” underlined the managers of Verbenas, a brand founded in Elche in 2014 and present in more than 60 countries. In the Nordic countries, the brand already has more than 200 points of sale.

Sita Murt, another Spanish label specializing in high-end knitwear, has been participating in the event for ten years. This year, its goal was “to explore Scandinavian markets and accelerate development abroad”. Its representatives were rather optimistic given the results and noticed quality traffic, also obtained thanks to a strategic location, next to brands with similar positioning such as the French Sessùn and American Vintage.

Stand of the cosmetics brand GreenEtiq – CIFF x Revolver

One of Sofie Dolva’s main initiatives upon her arrival as director of the show was to create an area dedicated to cosmetics brands. For this edition, it occupied the bright space previously intended for men’s brands. The number of participants was still modest, with around fifteen representatives from the field of perfumery and facial care. However, several brands such as Bodyologist, Inuacare and Rudolph Care were already in their second edition after “the interesting results obtained last winter”. In general, brands welcomed the opportunity offered by the show and the contact with international buyers, a first step in reaching their beauty purchasing counterparts.

Danish delegation to make first trip to New York

As part of its international expansion, CIFF x Revolver will set up shop in the city that never sleeps during New York Fashion Week through a collaboration with the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) and Danish industry association Wear. From September 7 to 9, the Scandinavian show will host a 20 square meter showroom at Mercer and Grand, in the SoHo district.

On the theme of ethical fashion, CIFF x Revolver will present in the United States a selection of twelve Danish brands of women’s fashion (Hemlstedt, Nynne, Birgitte Herskind, Storm & Marie and A Roege Hove), men’s fashion (Isnurh, Berner Kuhl and Han Kjobenhavn), shoes (Vinny’s) and beauty (Rudolph Care).

Six American brands were also selected by the CFDA for their eco-responsible positioning to support them: M. Patmos, Charles Harbison, Melissa Joy Manning, Julia Jentzsch, Jahnkoy and Hope For Flowers.

“Our world is more connected than ever, but cooperation is becoming essential. It is a privilege to work with our friends at CFDA to showcase the creativity and innovation that characterize Danish design, and it is a responsibility to use our shared voice to encourage positive change that will protect the future of design. “an industry that we love and value,” assures Sofie Dolva, convinced of the relevance of the synergy between events.

“The Scandinavian region has always been one of the world’s pioneers in terms of sustainable development. I am delighted by this opportunity to meet in New York with a common goal and to celebrate what unites us,” she adds.

The director of Wear, Nikolai Klausen, says he is “proud of his country”. “We are proud to be at the global forefront of eco-responsibility, a characteristic deeply integrated into the thinking of business leaders and consumers.” For him, the collaboration between American and Danish brands represents “a progressive approach to transnational cooperation in the fashion industry,” which “offers the opportunity to share experiences and inspire each other.”

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© 2023 FashionNetwork.com

2023-09-09 00:44:08


#CIFF #Revolver #transition #edition #trip #York

The CFDA, or Council of Fashion Designers of America, announced on Tuesday that 71 designers, along with five newcomers, have confirmed their participation in the upcoming New York Fashion Week, or NYFW. The event, which runs from Friday September 8 to Wednesday September 13, will see the return of Ralph Lauren, after a three-season hiatus, as well as Jonathan Cohen and 3.1 Phillip Lim.

Catwalk Ralph Lauren – Spring-Summer 2023 – Women’s clothing – Los Angeles – © ImaxTree

The kick-off will be at 2 p.m. on Friday with the highly anticipated presentation of Peter Do, newly appointed Creative Director at Helmut Lang, although the festivities will have started the day before, with the celebration of the 10th anniversary of Stuart Vevers at Coach, just after the Suprima Design competition, which is the subject of all the attention.

These six days of parades will however be deprived of the presence of some big names in American fashion such as Marc Jacobs, Tommy Hilfiger, Calvin Klein and The Row.

That said, the new-york season continues to boast an impressive roster. You can find the brands Altuzarra, Anna Sui, Area, Brandon Maxwell, Carolina Herrera, Christian Siriano, Collina Strada, COS, Dion Lee, Eckhaus Latta, Elena Velez, Gabriela Hearst, Jason Wu, Khaite, LaQuan Smith, Michael Kors, Palomo Spain, Prabal Gurung, Proenza Schouler, Puppets & Puppets, Sergio Hudson, Theory, Tibi, Tory Burch, Ulla Johnson and Willy Chavarria.

“The official schedule for this new New York Fashion Week will once again feature the best of American fashion, both emerging and established. We look forward to the return of Ralph Lauren, Jonathan Cohen and 3.1 Phillip Lim to the New York catwalks, which adds to the momentum of the event,” said CFDA CEO Steven Kolb.

See the catwalk JONATHAN COHEN – Fall-winter 2022 – 2023 – Women’s fashion – United States – New York – © ImaxTree

In addition to the 71 confirmed designers listed on the official calendar published by the CFDA, America’s fashion governing body, other collections will be presented digitally and by appointment.

Reflecting the dynamism of the younger generation, five designers will make their debut on the catwalk in the official calendar: Advicery, Chan Chit Lo, FFORME, Grace Ling and Sho Konishi.

Keith Herron’s Advisry caught the attention of editors last September with its streetwear style and screen-printed t-shirts inspired by Jean-Luc Godard’s classic Masculin Féminin. Chan Chit Lo is a conceptual and poetic specialist in men’s knitwear, FFORME stands out for its sculptural shapes and silhouettes, while Singapore’s Grace Ling emphasizes humor and surrealism. Finally, Sho Konishi is a confirmed avant-garde.

This year’s CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalists Colin LoCascio, Diotima, Kim Shui, Kozaburo, Melitta Baumeister, Sami Miró Vintage, Tanner Fletcher, Who Decides War and Zankov will also be attending Fashion Week, where they will showcase their collections .

“New York Fashion Week is an integral part of New York City’s vibrant, dynamic culture and insatiable taste for innovation and discovery,” added Steven Kolb.

The New York season’s shows will take place in Manhattan, but also increasingly in Brooklyn, although Spring Studios remains the hub of IMG’s NYFW: The Shows, which is managed by the independent talent agency.

NYFW’s Official Preliminary Schedule is compiled in partnership with IMG’s NYFW: The Shows. Parades and events continue to be presented via Runway360, the CFDA’s digital hub.

The CFDA is a nonprofit trade association founded in 1962 that represents 458 members, including America’s top designers of women’s and men’s apparel, jewelry, eyewear and accessories.

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© 2023 FashionNetwork.com

2023-09-04 15:04:27
#York #Fashion #Week #established #designers #newcomers