Marquesas Islands Cruise: Exploring Ancient Culture & Volcanic Landscapes | NZ Herald
The Marquesas Islands, a remote archipelago in French Polynesia, have been formally recognized by UNESCO for their unique blend of natural beauty and cultural significance. The designation, approved in July 2024, highlights the islands’ exceptional testimony to Polynesian seafaring civilization dating back to around 1000 CE.
Nuku Hiva, the largest of the Marquesas, offers a compelling glimpse into this history. The Kamuikei site, described as the most spectacular archaeological location on the island, stands as a testament to a once-thriving community. Once home to an estimated 10,000 people, Kamuikei features large areas of flat ground painstakingly carved from the hillside and reinforced by massive basalt boulder walls. The site’s atmosphere, intensified by the presence of ancient banyan trees, is described by visitors as distinctly evocative.
Recent visitors to Kamuikei have witnessed the revival of traditional Marquesan practices. Performances of traditional dance, accompanied by chants reminiscent of the haka, are now held beneath the canopy of a 600-year-old banyan tree. Five hundred years ago, Kamuikei served as a center for ritual and royalty, but the arrival of Europeans in 1595, followed by subsequent waves of explorers, missionaries and the introduction of disease, dramatically altered the islands’ cultural landscape. Today, efforts are underway to reclaim and celebrate these traditions, with dancers, musicians, and artists actively preserving and promoting Marquesan heritage.
The Kamuikei site as well features petroglyphs adorning large stones at Teiipoka, depicting human figures, birds, dogs, turtles, concentric circles, and fish, including the regalec, a type of oarfish. The area was once the territory of the Keikahanui warrior clan. While an explanatory sign has been installed, locating the petroglyphs requires careful exploration.
Beyond Kamuikei, the Marquesas Islands offer a diverse range of archaeological sites. Tohua Koueva on Nuku Hiva provides insights into ancient Marquesan life through its ceremonial stone platforms and petroglyphs. Other islands, like Ua Pou, are characterized by dramatic geological formations, such as immense basalt pinnacles that pierce the sky. Fatu Hiva presents a challenging but rewarding hiking experience, with trails traversing lush mountainous landscapes shaped by volcanic activity.
The recognition by UNESCO acknowledges the intricate relationship between the Marquesan people and their environment. The islands’ cultural value is intertwined with their natural beauty, a combination that distinguishes them within the Pacific region. The Marquesas are one of only 40 World Heritage sites recognized for both natural and cultural criteria, and one of only five terrestrial and maritime ecosystems to receive this dual designation in the Pacific.
Access to the islands is facilitated by the cargo-passenger vessel Aranui 5, which delivers essential supplies to remote communities while offering a unique cruise experience. The ship accommodates up to 230 passengers and provides access to the bridge, allowing observation of cargo operations. Meals onboard feature local cuisine, and opportunities exist to sample traditional Marquesan dishes like goat, raw tuna with coconut milk, and pork marinated in rum.
Lectures by cultural experts, such as Pascal Erhel Hatuuku, provide insights into the traditions, history, and geography of the Marquesas, as well as the navigational skills of ancient Polynesians who traversed the Pacific using the stars. The Aranui 5’s itinerary includes visits to six islands, each with its own distinct character, from the forested landscapes of Tahuata to the arid terrain of Ua Huka.