Are Gel Manicures a Cancer Risk?
Gel manicures, a quick luxury for many, utilize ultraviolet (UV) lamps to harden polish. However, a new study suggests these lamps may not be as harmless as once thought. The research indicates potential risks to skin health with regular use.
Harmful Effects of Manicure Lamps
A team led by photochemist María Laura Dántola at Argentina’s Institute of Theoretical and Applied Physical-Chemical Research (INIFTA), examined the impact of salon lamps on skin molecules. The study exposed common skin molecules to four-minute cycles mimicking typical gel manicures.
The results showed all targeted molecules, including amino acids and lipids, underwent chemical alterations, impairing their ability to function correctly. Dántola and her colleagues cautioned that “These devices are used without any controls or regulations requiring manufacturers to report on the potential risks of frequent exposure.”
Photosensitization and Skin Damage
Photosensitization occurs when molecules absorb light and transfer the energy to oxygen, producing reactive species that can damage DNA, proteins, and lipids. The study revealed one of the most significant changes affected tyrosinase, an enzyme vital for melanin production, which shields DNA from solar radiation. Interruptions to tyrosinase amplify damage, making skin more vulnerable to light.
The altered molecules also accelerated oxidative stress reactions, potentially harming cell membranes rapidly. Moreover, using skincare products like retinoids or certain antibiotics can heighten photosensitization, posing increased risks for those undergoing gel manicures.
Link Between Melanin Disruption and Lamp Brightness
The UVA radiation emitted by the lamps measured around 368–400 nanometers, a range known to cause tanning and wrinkles. Measurements showed the lamp’s irradiance peaked at approximately 7 milliwatts per square centimeter, which is nearly equivalent to the midday sun in Buenos Aires during the spring. According to the Skin Cancer Foundation, more people develop skin cancer because of indoor tanning than develop lung cancer because of smoking (Skin Cancer Foundation).
Cumulative Exposure and Safety Measures
The frequent repetition of gel manicures, often every two to three weeks, results in cumulative exposure. Photochemical injuries accumulate over time, causing oxidative stress and DNA damage. A prior test indicated that sunscreen with SPF 50 reduced cell death by over one-third during salon-like irradiation.
Dántola and her team noted that these processes lead to cell death, echoing concerns from dermatology societies linking chronic UVA exposure to premature aging and certain skin cancers.
Recommendations for Safer Manicures
The American Academy of Dermatology advises applying a broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher to hands before gel manicures. They also suggest opting for LED lamps, which cure polish faster with lower UV output. Salons could transition to hybrid lacquers that air-dry or set under visible blue light, further minimizing exposure.
Simple precautions include wearing fingerless UPF gloves, precisely timing lamp cycles, and maintaining well-moisturized skin to reduce light penetration. As regulatory standards for consumer nail lamps are still lacking, users and technicians bear the responsibility to ensure safety.
Balancing Beauty and Safety
The UV gel polish sector is a multi-billion dollar industry. Social media trends often encourage more frequent manicures, intensifying exposure. Dántola emphasizes that the current research focuses on mapping chemical events to inform dermatologists, engineers, and regulators. Future studies may explore glove fabrics, lamp filters, and polish formulas utilizing visible light for polymerization. Until safer options become standard, informed choices remain paramount.
The study is published in Chemical Research in Toxicology.
