A seemingly simple dumpling is sparking culinary curiosity, as chefs and food enthusiasts rediscover “Gnocchi Parisienne” – a delicate, cheese-infused variation of the classic Italian dish made with pâte à choux, the same dough used for cream puffs and éclairs. The dish, traditionally served with a vegetable ragout, is gaining attention for its unique texture and surprising origins.
While gnocchi are commonly associated with potatoes or semolina, Gnocchi Parisienne distinguishes itself through the use of brandteig, a cooked dough base. The process involves cooking milk and flour together until a thick paste forms, then vigorously stirring and heating until the starch gelatinizes. This creates a remarkably airy texture when the dough is cooked, baked, or fried, as the steam produced by the eggs cannot escape.
According to chef and food stylist Volker Hobl, the resulting gnocchi are tender on the inside and delightfully crisp on the outside. Hobl’s recipe, published alongside wine critic Manfred Klimek, calls for 40ml of milk, 120g of flour, 25g of butter, a pinch of salt, three eggs, and three tablespoons of grated Gruyère or Parmesan cheese. The gnocchi are poached in salted water for approximately ten minutes, then browned in butter until golden and crisp.
The dish is often paired with a carefully selected wine. Klimek recommends a Japanese sake, specifically a Tohi Aka-shu Akazake from Zuiyo, a sake with a 1200-year history and a unique flavor profile derived from the addition of wood ash during production. He describes the sake as having “massive umami,” with notes of mandarin and smoke, suggesting it be diluted with water to balance its intensity.
The connection between gnocchi and Japanese cuisine extends beyond wine pairings. The Japanese have a similar dumpling called “nyuumen,” which shares the soft, doughy texture of Italian gnocchi and is often served in soups or stews. Taste Pursuits reports that this similarity is likely due to cultural exchange and adaptation following Japan’s embrace of Western influences in the late 19th century.
Hobl’s recipe too includes a creamy vegetable ragout made with carrots, leeks, and mushrooms, simmered in a sauce of butter, cream, and thyme. The gnocchi are served atop the ragout, offering a contrasting texture and flavor combination.
Notably, Gnocchi Parisienne can be prepared in advance and stored in the refrigerator for up to two days, making it a convenient option for entertaining. The dough can be portioned using a piping bag or formed into small mounds with spoons before poaching.
