Versace’s New Era: A Sensual, Yet Subtly Restrained Debut Under Vitale
By julia Evans, World-Today-News.com
The house of Versace entered a new chapter this weekend,with it’s debut collection under new creative director,Daniele Vitale. The show, held within a reimagined museum space evoking the aftermath of a lavish, decadent party – think disheveled beds and makeup-stained vanities – signaled a shift, though not a complete departure, from the brand’s famously overt sensuality.
The influence of Gianni Versace, the label’s founder and a master of bold, unapologetic design, was palpable. Even before the show began, attendees like stylist Law Roach were subtly showcasing the legacy, sporting vintage Versace pieces – in Roach’s case, an ’80s leather bomber. “Everyone is wearing one piece of Gianni,” he quipped, pointing out a playful detail: a studded leather cord cinching his jeans, a nod to a ’90s Versace design that actually utilized repurposed cock rings as belt closures. (Yes, really.)
While Vitale’s collection didn’t immediately plunge into the overtly sexual territory for which Versace is known, it certainly wasn’t devoid of allure. Compared to the brand’s “va-va-voom” past, the collection offered a more nuanced approach. Narrow muscle tanks, tailored shorts, and strategically undone denim were present, but the emphasis felt less about explicit exposure and more about suggestion. A notably striking element was the unexpected pairing of black leather trousers with brown leather shoes – a deliberately “sleazy ’80s throwback,” as Vitale described it, and a distinctly Italian touch.
The casting, expertly handled by Julia Lange, deserves significant praise. The runway saw the debut of rising stars Talia Ryder and Ava Capri, a refreshing addition to a house historically associated with supermodels like Linda Evangelista, Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, and Christy Turlington.
Vitale,still sporting Miu Miu post-show,presented himself as a thoughtful and romantic designer.He spoke of a “tormented passion” for Caravaggio and envisioned his models as “gods and goddesses having an affair with mortals.” He even brought his own bedsheets to create a personal corner within the show space, a gesture highlighting his desire to infuse the established Versace narrative with his own unique sensibility.
While some tailoring leaned towards the exaggerated power
