Why Black Women Are Returning to Chemical Hair Relaxers

Key Clinical Takeaways:

• Chemical relaxers, once facing declining sales that led to reports of near extinction, are seeing a documented resurgence among some Black women due to natural-hair fatigue.
• Arizona recently filed a lawsuit against L’Oréal over alleged failures to warn consumers about potential reproductive health risks linked to relaxers, such as uterine cancer and fibroids.
• Dermatologists note that lye and lye-free alternative relaxers remain highly alkaline chemical formulations capable of causing scalp burns and structural hair damage.

The Shift From Natural Styles Back to Chemical Straightening

For decades, chemical relaxers served as a standard fixture for styling tightly curled and coiled hair. During the height of the natural hair movement between 2011 and 2016, sales of these cream texturizers fell by 60%, prompting widespread adoption of natural hairstyles and the “big chop” transition. However, the modern marketplace is seeing a reversal. Zateesha Barbour notes that clients requesting relaxers prioritize straightforward styling over the perceived health risks, questioning why their hair care choices must carry heavy burdens that others do not face.

Charlotte Mensah, celebrating 40 years in the hair industry, attributes the renewed interest directly to exhaustion from deep conditioning, product layering, and lengthy wash days. While emphasizing that natural hair itself is not inherently problematic, Mensah points out that the accumulated routine often becomes overwhelming for consumers.

Arizona Sues L’Oréal over Chemical Relaxer Health Risks

The return of chemical relaxers coincides with escalating legal and public health scrutiny regarding their safety profiles. Arizona filed a lawsuit against L’Oréal alleging that the company failed to properly warn consumers about associations between certain chemical hair relaxers and health risks, including uterine cancer and fibroids. In the United Kingdom, a landmark report published last month by World Afro Day in partnership with research consultancy Shift Insight titled “Afro Hair: Is State Intervention Needed?” found that a third of respondents with Afro-textured hair reported that hair products had damaged their physical health, while 84% agreed that finding trustworthy ingredients is vital.

Despite these developments, relaxer kits remain widely available in retail shops and online. Sharon Belmo, a leading dermatologist and hair-loss specialist, explains that relaxers sold in the UK are regulated as cosmetics, meaning they must pass product safety assessments and meet ingredient limits. However, Belmo warns that standard cosmetic regulations do not prevent burns or side effects caused by improper application.

Lye-Free Relaxers May Not Be Safer than Traditional Lye

Consumers often turn to alternative formulations under the assumption that they offer a safer experience. Belmo addresses this misconception directly, noting that lye-free relaxers—such as guanidine hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, or ammonium thioglycolate—are frequently perceived as gentler. While they may sting less during application, Belmo states that they remain highly alkaline formulations capable of burning the scalp and weakening the hair shaft, with no clinical evidence proving they are inherently safer for scalp health than traditional sodium hydroxide lye relaxers.

Disclaimer: The information provided in this article is for educational and scientific communication purposes only and does not constitute medical advice. Always consult with a qualified healthcare provider regarding any medical condition, diagnosis, or treatment plan.