Los Angeles Crowns a New French Fry Champion
Forget ketchup: Balsamic vinegar steals the show in the Arts District.
For those in search of the perfect fried potato, the quest might just end at an unexpected Italian restaurant. One food critic believes she has discovered the ultimate French fry in Los Angeles, turning conventional wisdom about thick-cut fries on its head.
Reassessing Fry Preferences
The writer admits to past biases, particularly against steak fries, which she likened to bland, starchy wedges beyond salvation. However, some fries earned praise: curly fries, when appropriately prepared; waffle fries, consistently satisfying.
Skinny fries, with their high ratio of crispy exterior to fluffy interior, were lauded. For years, the truffle Parmesan fries at **Chateau Marmont** held a special place in her heart, despite the hefty $17 price tag.
The Rise of Tallow Fries
The tallow fries at **Happies Hand Made**, located in the Arts District, also contend for the crown. Prepared with beef tallow, these fries boast a uniquely speckled surface, delivering an exceptionally satisfying crunch. Their seasoning is so balanced, ketchup becomes optional—though some might disagree. In fact, 71% of consumers say that condiments are essential to the french fry experience (PR Newswire, 2022).
A Surprise Contender Emerges
But now, a new contender has entered the ring: **Rossoblu**, an Italian restaurant in the Arts District, may hold the key to the city’s best fries. The Apennine fries—triple-cooked, seasoned with herbs, and drizzled with balsamic—are listed modestly among the side dishes for $14.
These fries are **Steve Samson**’s interpretation of a childhood memory from the Apennine Mountains near Bologna. According to **Samson**, “One time we just went to some outdoor restaurant and I had fries with balsamic vinegar, and it was like, ‘Phew, this is mind blowing,’”
Inside the Perfect Fry
These fries defy expectations of thick-cut potatoes. Each log boasts a rugged exterior akin to fried chicken. Aromatic rosemary and sage add to their appeal.
The texture is exceptional—a delicate, chip-like crunch gives way to an airy interior. What truly distinguishes them is the sweet and tangy balsamic vinegar.
Kennebec potatoes are the only variety used by **Steve**, but sourcing them consistently proves challenging. “Sometimes our produce guy says it can be hard to get Kennebecs because In-N-Out uses so many of them,”
he explains.
Crafting the Apennine Fry
The preparation is meticulous. Potatoes are cut, rinsed, soaked, and steamed. After a cooling period, they undergo an initial frying, followed by freezing. Finally, they are flash-fried at 375 degrees just before serving.
Even with such care, success isn’t guaranteed. Batches can sometimes absorb too much oil or fall apart. Yet, as **Steve** notes, “Whenever we get a good batch of potatoes, it’s such a good feeling. You feel like you’ve won something.”
The Apennine fries are back on the **Rossoblu** menu, though their availability may vary. Calling ahead is recommended for those eager to experience these exceptional fries firsthand.
