Very corseted Mugler, very sexy Schiaparelli and very charming Issey Miyake… all the silhouettes are on the Parisian catwalks.

Mugler (without Thierry, who died in 2022) celebrates its fifty years. With a documentary broadcast since Wednesday on Canal+ (our September 26 editions). And a very beautiful collection which was paraded the next day in the hall of the Trianon. “Cadwaller (the current artistic director, Editor’s note) takes the chance of this celebration to once again interweave its vision with the codes of the house”, according to the note of intent. If the American has sometimes lost the very essence of the work of the superstar couturier (tailor precision) in favor of show parades and video experiments, he returns to a more classic presentation of magnificent peplum jackets matched with miniskirts. with architectural hips. Her very corseted reinterpretation of the master’s insect dresses is equally admirable.

Mugler spring-summer 2025 fashion show. Filippo Fior

In front of the parade Schiaparelli Place Vendôme, fans are stationed in the rain waiting for the celebrity guests. Kylie Jenner is indeed in the front row, as often, cast in one of the latest creations by Daniel Roseberry, the designer of the house. She smiled as she saw her sister Kendall walk by on the catwalk, blonde and sublime in an incredible corseted denim jumpsuit. Loving nothing more than the 1980s, the Texan designer has probably seen a lot dallas looking at these long bleach denim jackets, these short suits with kimono sleeves in ivory wool and these sheath dresses with polo collars… Adriana Lima (eternal top model) has a false air of Sue Ellen in her large check shirt dress ( always corseted). Keyhole finishes, surrealist trompe-l’oeil and sheaths glitter follow one another against a backdrop of electro-pop. It’s very sexy for Schiaparelli but the celebrities who wear Roseberry’s creations on the red carpets rarely get cold feet (and elsewhere). More refined, the magnificent braided South Sea blue tulle dress worn wonderfully by Angelina Kendall.

Schiaparelli spring-summer 2025 fashion show. Schiaparelli

Wanting to get closer to the location of the Loewe fashion show which precedes its own in the calendar, the brand Issey Miyake chose the Pavillon de la Chesnaie du Roy built for and at the same time as the Floral Park in 1968, whose Japanese inspiration came to the architect of the place while he was still fascinated by the Tokyo Olympic Games four years ago earlier. This decor bathed in light perfectly suits the spirit of the brand. For summer 2025, artistic director Satoshi Kondo is obviously continuing his textile research (many architects and designers like Ronan Bouroullec, close to the house, are there) and starting from the sheet of paper “made of plants and water” et “handcrafted ». The extremely fine materials, slightly woven, are crumpled, embossed, folded, unfolded. But while Miyake’s collections are sometimes more beautiful to look at than easy to wear, this one demonstrates realism with these textured coats, these mauve woven trench coats, these caftan shirts like a sheet of white paper and these origami cut pants. The models wear shopping bags of the brand and bouquets of wild flowers. And it’s charming.

Issey Miyake spring-summer 2025 show. Johanna Geron / Reuters