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Dior pre-fall fashion show presented in New York on April 15.
Caitlin Ochs / REUTERS

Notched hair, flapper silhouettes, killer looks… From the first sections of the fall 2024 fashion show Dior, presented on April 15 at the Brooklyn Museum, the aura of Marlene Dietrich imposes itself on the mind. As if it were obvious. The common thread of this collection, the German actress and singer symbolizes the perfect connection between Paris and New York, the cities where she lived, and also shows the connection between Dior and New York.

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“Marlene Dietrich was one of Christian Dior’s loyal friends and clients,” emphasizes Maria Grazia Chiuri, artistic director of Dior’s women’s collections. She also asked him to design some of her dresses. movies. She was an ultra-modern woman who understood the power of fashion and took her style seriously.”

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Sulphurous problem

A true legend of cinema from the 1920s to the 1950s, Marlene Dietrich was able to reinvent the image of women by playing on the male / female ambiguity, sulphurous and controlled luxury, without worrying about bias – birth Throughout her life, she was a symbol of female liberation that she fiercely defended. Maria Grazia Chiurisince he came to Dior in 2016. So his entire collection is inspired by the transcendental and avant-garde image of cinema, through silhouettes with a boyish look, dressed in men’s coats A large herringbone, wool suit, pleated pants or short shorts worn with suit jackets and ties.

Dior Fall 2024 Show.
Christian Dior

There are several jackets inspired by creations that Marlene Dietrich ordered from Dior, and one mannequin wearing a top hat, white shirt and black tuxedo repeating the outfit worn by the actress in the famous cabaret scene Cœurs brûlés (1930). For the evening, the silhouettes call Hollywood glamor with dresses with sparkling edges and transparent slip dresses, decorated with pearls, worthy. The Blue Angel.

The New York Victory

Beyond the figure of the German star, this collection also pays homage to New York and especially to American timelessness. “New York it really influenced my personal style, said Maria Grazia Chiuri. I like sportswear and denim. It’s the very functional aspect of clothing that intrigues me.” Therefore, the collection is part of the legacy of Christian Dior who, in 1947, created a workshop there to produce more practical versions adapted to modern American life of his haute couture pieces. The little black dresses are perfectly presented to embody this desire for ease, a fitted waist and flowing materials that will not hinder your approach.

Dior Fall 2024 Show.
Christian Dior

Loyal to his cause mode that liberates the woman, the designer mixes loose knit sweaters with shiny fishnet skirts, offering sweatshirts and sweatpants printed with designs of the Statue of Liberty and the New York skyline. The models wear adorable teddy jackets, or they are in a complete denim look. The perfect combination of chic and comfort, the definition of a desirable and contemporary wardrobe. A proposal that appealed to the many international stars who came to attend the fashion show, from Charlize Theron to Anya Taylor-Joy, including Lætitia Casta. They are all present in this museum and it is the only one that has a gallery dedicated to female artists, a dedication to Maria Grazia Chiuri.