Scottish Cashmere: Saving a Dying Craft with New Training Programs
A cashmere mill in Ayr, Scotland, is actively working to reverse a decades-long trend of an aging workforce through new training programs, as traditional skills in textile manufacturing face potential extinction. Maria Wade, 61, a “greasy mender” at Alex Begg – a role involving the meticulous inspection and repair of raw cashmere – expressed concern over the dwindling number of skilled craftspeople capable of performing her specialized task. “There aren’t many people darning raw cashmere anymore,” she said. “It’s a dying trade.”
Alex Begg, which has supplied luxury brands for over 150 years, has launched initiatives to attract and train a younger generation of artisans. Lorna Dempsey, director of technical transformation, noted that when she joined the company over 25 years ago, the average employee age was “around 50 and plus.” That average has now been reduced to 40 across the mill’s 150 employees.
The challenge lies in attracting individuals to a sector often overlooked by those seeking careers in fashion. Many potential recruits gravitate towards opportunities in larger cities like Glasgow, located approximately one hour north of Ayr. “We don’t have a lot of skills in the Ayrshire area, so it’s incredibly difficult to locate qualified personnel,” Dempsey explained. The rise of fast fashion has also contributed to the difficulty of recruiting young people with traditional manufacturing skills.
Dempsey highlighted the importance of preserving skills that are increasingly rare. “Many of our operations clearly rely on ancient grasp-how,” she said, adding that many people today no longer even know how to “mend their socks.”
A partnership with The King’s Foundation, a charity founded by King Charles III, is proving instrumental in addressing this skills gap. The foundation offers training programs designed to combat a “deficit of skills in the British textile industry.” Trainees gain experience across the production line, supply chains, material handling, and sustainable design – areas often absent from standard fashion school curricula. Participants then undertake placements at Scottish workshops, including Alex Begg.
Emma Hyslop, 28, is one such success story. After completing a six-week course with The King’s Foundation, she was hired by Alex Begg and now expertly operates a fringing machine, preparing cashmere for a Spanish luxury brand. Hyslop, who previously earned a design degree from a Glasgow university, was unaware of the mill’s existence before the training program. “I had no idea this place existed,” she said.
Dempsey described Alex Begg as a “real hidden treasure.” “So it’s our job, our heritage, to continue to bring people into our manufacturing businesses, and to revive these skills.”
The King’s involvement extends beyond training initiatives. He recently attended the opening of London Fashion Week and met with apprentices supporting heritage crafts and sustainability.
Despite the challenges, entrepreneurs like Nicole Christie, founder of sustainable women’s brand Ellipsis, are finding success in Scotland’s luxury fashion sector. Christie, who completed a King’s Foundation course in 2020, chose to remain in Glasgow after considering opportunities elsewhere. “I’m really proud to be doing this here, and I really hope that one day I can offer opportunities to other people,” she said.