Okay, here’s a breakdown of the article, covering its main points, themes, and key details, presented in a thorough summary:
Article Summary: Inside The Rise Of Thom Browne’s Principal Archivist, Tianni Graham
This article profiles Tianni Graham, the Principal Archivist at Thom Browne, detailing her role, expertise, and the meaning of her position within the fashion industry, particularly as a Black archivist. It highlights her journey, the intricacies of her work, and her commitment to fostering diversity and possibility within the field of archival studies.
Key Points & Details:
Tianni Graham’s Role at Thom Browne: She is responsible for the complete lifecycle of the brand’s archive – managing, documenting, preserving, contextualizing, analyzing, and providing access to runway collections, special projects, collaborations, and custom pieces (including high-profile looks like those for the Met Gala). She’s actively developing the archival database to streamline access for internal teams (research, PR, VIP dressing, curation) and track the brand’s presence in museum collections.
The Importance of Preservation: The article emphasizes the scientific aspect of her work. Graham stresses the importance of material compatibility in preservation, specifically avoiding plastics due to their off-gassing and detrimental effects on other materials. She provides the example of PVC becoming cloudy and yellowing over time and the need to isolate such items.
Brand Self-Referentiality: Thom Browne is a brand that frequently draws inspiration from its own history. this means Graham is heavily involved in the design process, pulling 60-80 archival looks for designers during research and development. She provides detailed insights into the specifics designers look for – down fill, padding, distressing, embroidery.
Workflow & Busy Seasons: Her work is cyclical. She pulls pieces for presentations, market appointments, and editorial shoots. After these events, she meticulously documents new pieces. The Met Gala is her busiest time, managing numerous archival pulls and custom requests. Exhibition loans are a long-term process, often planned 9-18 months in advance.
Mentorship & Community: Graham emphasizes the importance of mentorship, having benefited from guidance from figures like Lee and Hartman. She is now dedicated to paying it forward through her platform,Archive Alive,and her broader network.
Breaking Barriers: The article highlights the significance of Graham’s position as a Black archivist in an industry that historically lacks diversity. She sees her role as demonstrating possibility to others who look like her and creating opportunities for mentorship.
Archive Alive & Expanding Access: Graham’s platform, Archive Alive, is focused on widening access to education and professional opportunities for aspiring Black archivists.
Acknowledging Peers: She acknowledges the support and advocacy of other Black archivists, specifically naming Syreeta Gates (The Gates Preserve) and Camille Lawrence, who have championed her even when she wasn’t present.
Themes:
The evolving role of the fashion archivist: The article demonstrates that the role is far more than just storage; it’s integral to design, marketing, and brand identity.
The intersection of art, science, and history: Archival work requires a blend of aesthetic understanding, scientific knowledge of materials, and historical context. Diversity and inclusion in the fashion industry: The article underscores the importance of representation and creating opportunities for marginalized groups within the industry.
the power of mentorship and community: Graham’s story highlights the value of guidance and support in navigating a career path.
* Preservation as a form of storytelling: The archive isn’t just a collection of objects; it’s a narrative of the brand’s evolution and creative vision.
let me no if you’d like me to elaborate on any specific aspect of the article!
