Nîmes, France – Chef François-Xavier Durieu of Textures, Comptoirs et Objets is reimagining the classic grilled cheese sandwich, elevating it with locally sourced ingredients and refined techniques. The restaurant, located behind the Carré d’art in Nîmes, offers a menu that balances tradition and modernity, according to a recent review.
Durieu’s version departs significantly from the typical American “pain de mie-jambon-fromage” (white bread-ham-cheese), aiming for a more gastronomic experience. The foundation of the dish is a homemade focaccia, prepared by pastry chef Fiona, incorporating rosemary grown in her family’s garden. “We always tend to go a little further,” Durieu explained, as reported by France Bleu. The focaccia’s high olive oil content prevents it from drying out during cooking, resulting in a “croustifondant” – crispy and soft – texture.
To achieve a perfectly crisp crust, Durieu utilizes sunflower oil instead of olive oil, allowing it to heat up more quickly and prevent overcooking. The cheese component features Morbier, chosen for its creamy texture and subtle winter flavor. To balance the richness of the cheese and focaccia, Durieu incorporates roasted lemon-citrus poireaux (leeks). A key element is a compote of onions made with vergeoise, a non-refined sugar from northern France similar to brown sugar, and a touch of soy sauce.
The onion compote is created by melting the vergeoise with butter or oil, adding minced onions, deglazing with soy sauce, and allowing it to simmer gently. The assembled sandwich – focaccia, Morbier, roasted leeks, another layer of Morbier, and topped with focaccia – is then baked until the cheese is melted. Durieu also offers a croque-madame variation, adding a fried egg on top.
Textures, Comptoirs et Objets, opened a little over two years ago, is a concept restaurant-boutique created by Durieu and his wife, Emmanuelle. The restaurant sources ingredients from local producers, including a baker praised for his “incredible” bread, and offers a menu that changes with the seasons. The establishment also features a boutique selling objects d’art, allowing customers to purchase items featured in the restaurant’s décor. The couple previously worked at several Michelin-starred restaurants, including Michel Bras, and continue to travel to gather inspiration for their cuisine, according to Midi Libre.
The restaurant welcomes guests from breakfast to dinner, offering a refined yet accessible dining experience. French Toast Blog described the restaurant as a “chouette experience” – a delightful experience – and praised its balance of tradition and modernity.
