René Redzepi, the celebrated chef behind the three-Michelin-starred restaurant Noma, has stepped away from the restaurant following a resurgence of allegations detailing abusive behavior toward staff, coinciding with the opening of a controversial pop-up in Los Angeles. The move came after protests erupted in Silver Lake and corporate sponsors, including American Express, withdrew support from the exclusive event.
The Los Angeles pop-up, which began a 16-week run on Wednesday, has drawn criticism for its $1,500-per-person price tag, particularly in a city grappling with a high cost of living. Despite the controversy, reservations reportedly sold out quickly, according to Noma.
On Thursday, Jason Ignacio White, a former director of fermentation at Noma and a prominent voice in the campaign against Redzepi, received a letter from Noma representatives. The letter, which White posted on Instagram, proposed a meeting to discuss the allegations, contingent on “ground rules” including a neutral third-party transcriptionist, confidentiality, and a commitment to refrain from personal attacks. The letter also requested an end to the ongoing protests, stating that demonstrations would cease once a meeting was scheduled and “attacks” stopped.
White, speaking by phone Friday, indicated the letter is under review. “What I can say is that we will not accept protest stopping until there’s a settlement agreement, or until there’s some kind of agreement in place for our demands that are negotiated,” he said. Protesters have vowed to maintain a presence outside the Paramour Estate in Silver Lake, the location of the pop-up, and plan to protest a forthcoming Noma retail shop scheduled to open next month on Sunset Boulevard.
White’s campaign gained momentum after a New York Times investigation published days before the Los Angeles pop-up launch detailed allegations of physical and psychological abuse spanning from 2009 to 2017. The report included accounts of Redzepi punching staff in the ribs, using a barbecue fork to poke employees, threatening deportation, and engaging in body shaming. Redzepi also resigned from the board of MAD, the nonprofit organization he founded.
The allegations have sparked a debate about the culture within high-end kitchens. White, who worked at Noma for approximately five years, has partnered with the worker-advocacy nonprofit One Fair Wage to demand reparations for affected staff, a fund for support services, and livable wages. He has shared numerous accounts of alleged abuse on social media, fueling the campaign.
However, one incident central to White’s narrative – involving a 2021 burn injury sustained by a Noma intern – has been disputed. The intern, who requested anonymity, confirmed the incident but contradicted White’s account of the staff’s reaction. She stated that she did not cry or scream, and that staff, including head chef Pablo Soto, responded respectfully and promptly arranged for medical attention. She described her internship as a positive experience and expressed discomfort with White’s characterization of the event.
The intern reviewed photos of her burns and messages sent to her parents recounting the August 2021 incident. She said she considered contacting White directly but feared any communication might be screen-shot by him and posted to social media.
Soto, currently leading the kitchen at the Los Angeles pop-up, has also disputed White’s account, stating that it does not reflect his character or work ethic. He acknowledged receiving “hate messages and personal threats” since White’s posts and said that “toxic” staff have been “actively removed” from the team. He also noted improvements in staff interactions and training practices.
Another former Noma intern also disputed White’s account of the burn incident, alleging that White himself engaged in verbal abuse toward interns in the fermentation lab. White denied these allegations, stating he has never cursed at a Noma intern and encouraged those with concerns to contact him directly.
Andrew Moreo, an assistant professor of hospitality management at Florida International University, noted the inherent pressures within the restaurant industry, citing urgency, thin profit margins, long hours, and cramped working conditions as contributing factors to potentially volatile environments. He emphasized the need for a shift in management perspective, viewing staff as individuals to be supported rather than simply serving the business.
White and One Fair Wage have indicated they are prepared to pursue legal action against Noma if their demands are not met. White also plans to focus on addressing ethical policies at other prominent industry organizations, including the Michelin Guide, the James Beard Foundation Awards, and World’s 50 Best Restaurants.
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