HEALTH – If you have dark spots on your face that don’t go away, you may be affected by a type of hyperpigmentation called melasma.
–
According to the American Academy of Dermatology, melasma affects nearly five million Americans, mainly women. In France, little data is available on the subject. This condition could be more common in pregnant women and those taking oral contraceptives according to the International Skin Institute and Doctor Claudia Aguirre cited by the brand Eucerin. According to one study from 2008 conducted by the University of Medicine and Pharmacy of Marrakech, out of a group of 60 pregnant women, only 5% would have developed a chloasma or pregnancy mask.
–
This condition caused by a hormonal change and exposure to the sun poses no health risk. Melasma can fade with adequate care, even if you will not necessarily find a perfectly even complexion. However, mistreatment can make the situation worse and some lightening products found on the market can be dangerous.
–
The HuffPost asked some dermatologists for advice to identify safe treatments and limit the appearance of melasma, especially in this period when we are most exposed to the sun.
–
What is melasma?
Melasma is in the form of irregularly shaped brown spots that appear on the skin when the melanocytes (the pigment cells in the skin) produce too much melanin. The mechanism is different from “other forms of hyperpigmentation, such as in spots left by scars and acne,” says Jeremy Fenton, certified dermatologist.
–
Most often, melasma appears on the forehead, upper lip and cheeks. Women are more affected than men, and people with dark skin are particularly exposed, without anyone knowing why.
–
“Melasma can be episodic and gets worse when estrogen levels go up, especially during pregnancy,” says Marisa Garshick, certified dermatologist.
–
The spots can darken considerably when exposed to the sun and it is sometimes enough to spend a few minutes in front of a window to trigger it. “Melasma is extremely sensitive to light,” adds Jeremy Fenton.
–
Blue light seems to be making it worse, adds Marisa Garshick. It is therefore recommended to use a “SPF 30 or more broad spectrum sunscreen which protects against blue light”.
–
Limiting sun exposure is essential
Use sunscreens containing zinc or titanium, which form a physical barrier against UVA and UVB and limit your exposure to the rays. Against blue light, Marisa Garshick recommends a formula with iron oxide.
–
Wide brim hats cover the face better than a cap and are therefore a better option according to Brendan Camp, certified dermatologist. He also suggests that those with melasma wear other protective clothing, such as a multi-use bandana that can be worn around the neck or on the head.
–
He adds that “several brands currently offer masks with SPF for the face” which can reduce sun exposure if they are combined with sunscreen.
–
Of course, sunscreen should be given regularly throughout the day.
–
Try these safe treatments
By treating melasma with a topical product, we “prevent the melanocytes from producing pigments”, explains Jeremy Fenton. In other words, we are trying to lighten the spots of melasma.
–
Two types of lightening products are available over the counter: formulas with or without hydroquinone.
–
Products containing 2% hydroquinone, used for many years, are considered the most effective treatment for melasma. Dermatologists can also prescribe products with a concentration of 4%, but do not believe that the more there are, the better. Prolonged use or too high doses of hydroquinone can cause a paradoxical hyperpigmentation which is called exogenous ochronosis, warns Marisa Garshick.
–
Even if you are content with over-the-counter products containing 2% hydroquinone, do not hesitate to consult a dermatologist as well, and above all, be patient: the first results may not appear until after three months.
–
Lightening products without hydroquinone owe their effectiveness to azelaic or kojic acids, which eliminate pigment cells by chemical exfoliation. This type of product should be used with topical antioxidants to soothe inflammation. Marisa Garshick and Brendan Camp have a predilection for products with vitamin C which repairs the damage caused by free radicals, unifies the complexion and lightens it, which is an advantage.
–
Don’t force on exfoliation. “An aggressive exfoliation treatment can give the impression of improvement in the short term, but there is often a rebound effect”, warns Jeremy Fenton. “This is one of the biggest mistakes patients make.”
–
In case of refractory melasma, dermatologists can offer a chemical peel performed in the office, or prescribe products that combine hydroquinone, a retinoid and a steroid.
–
Treatments to Avoid
Many products sold online to treat hyperpigmentation prove to be ineffective and potentially dangerous. A Harvard Health article warns against oral or injection glutathione lighteners as they can affect kidney and thyroid functions.
–
You should also be wary of supposedly lightening home remedies, warns Brendan Camp. “Lemon juice, apple cider vinegar, onions and garlic can make the skin even more sensitive to the sun or cause post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation,” he concludes.
–
This article, published on The HuffPost American was translated by Valeriya Macogon for Fast ForWord.
–
See also on The HuffPost: EnjoyPhoenix reveals itself without makeup to talk about its hormonal acne
–
–
