Venetian Life: An Insider’s View Amidst Tourists and Rising Tides

Living in Venice offers a unique blend of beauty and challenges. For years, one woman has called this iconic city home, navigating its complexities while cherishing its unique qualities. Her experiences offer an intimate perspective on a city grappling with overtourism, rising sea levels, and the allure of its extraordinary light.

From Language to Lagoon

Orla McLaughlin’s journey to Venice began with a passion for languages. Initially drawn to French and German, she later embraced Italian, finding it a perfect complement to her interest in current affairs. An Erasmus placement led her to Venice, and she returned after completing her degree at UCD. Further studies in European studies followed at the University of Padua.

During her UCD days, she worked with children on summer camps in Italy. After completing her studies in the 1990s, she returned to Venice, also earning a degree in Fundraising and Non-profit Management from the University of Bologna.

A Career in the Floating City

McLaughlin transitioned through various roles, including film production, theater, and translation. Since 2001, she has been working at the Venice International University (VIU), where she now manages academic projects. Her role connects her with people worldwide, fostering interdisciplinary and intercultural opportunities.

She works forty hours a week. Her office, located on the island of San Servolo, provides a daily commute across the water, offering stunning views of Venice. The university, now linked with twenty global universities, gives her a rich cultural mix. Working in an international environment is very rewarding, allowing her to meet fascinating people and travel regularly.

Family Life and Local Charm

Married to a Venetian, Sebastiano, whom she met through friends, McLaughlin credits him for her decision to make Venice her home. They have three bilingual children: Conall (17), Clodagh (14), and Oisín (11). Her husband’s family runs a business crafting glass chandeliers in Murano. They’ve started a small business, illuminamurano.com, selling lighting directly to customers.

McLaughlin has always felt deeply connected to the city. She says, “It’s a city on water, it’s a pedestrian city, it’s very engaging as you meet people from all walks of life all the time – it could be your neighbour, your butcher, the bar owner. I made a lot of local Venetian friends early on.”

Challenges and Joys of Venetian Living

The exceptional quality of light in Venice nourishes the soul, she says. Despite the city’s beauty, she notes the cost of living is not as high as in Ireland. Challenges include rising sea levels, flooding, and overtourism. Flooding has been less of an issue since the installation of mobile dams, and there have been no major floods since 2019. Overtourism and the Airbnb trend have made finding accommodation difficult.

Social life thrives in Venice. Regular wine bar visits, particularly on Fridays, are a common pastime. For families, there’s football in the square for kids after school, enjoying drinks as the sun sets, and dinners. Barbecues and boat trips are also part of their lifestyle.

While she misses family and friends in Ireland, she returns once or twice a year. She also notes the lack of green spaces, but their second home in the mountains provides a retreat. While the tourist influx impacts daily life, the city’s population faces ongoing strains from the global tourism market.

A City at a Crossroads

McLaughlin views the upcoming marriage of Jeff Bezos in the city as the commodification of Venice. “There is also a total lack of housing policy or amenities for residents, so the frustration of people living here is the real lack of vision of politicians as to what the future of the city will be.”

According to a 2023 study by the Venetian government, tourism spending in the city totaled over $1.5 billion, marking a 25% increase from the previous year (Venice Tourism Data).

Despite the challenges, McLaughlin finds Venice captivating. She appreciates the city’s community and the joy of everyday life, even amid the pressures of tourism and climate change. Her experience illustrates the resilience and enduring appeal of this iconic city.