edward Enninful Launches Independent Magazine ’72’, Challenging Customary Fashion Media
Former British Vogue editor-in-chief Edward Enninful has launched a new independent magazine, “72,” aiming to disrupt the traditional advertising-dependent model of fashion publishing. The launch comes amidst speculation surrounding Anna Wintour‘s future at Vogue and reported downsizing at the legacy title.
Enninful,who left Vogue in december 2023,assembled a team by “poaching” talent from his former employer,including a former fashion critic,two fashion editors,an entertainment director,and two creative directors. In a recent interview with Bloomberg, Enninful stated he did not seek to replace Wintour, explaining, “I wanted my own thing. I wanted to create something for the next generation. And that’s why I left.”
“72,” priced at £15 for its 111-page debut issue, notably features no traditional advertising. A spokesperson for the magazine described this as a ”strategic decision” and “a direct challenge to the advertising-dependent model that’s been constraining editorial creativity for years,” declining to comment on whether paid product placements or sponsored shoots were utilized.
The magazine’s content spans fashion, wellness, arts, and culture, including features like Marc Jacobs’ bedtime routine, a beauty spread showcasing a $24 toothpaste and a GLP-1 medication pen, and a three-page spread dedicated to a Moncler collection designed by Enninful.
Though, the launch hasn’t been universally praised. Jeremy Leslie, founder of independent magazine platform MagCulture, described “72” as lacking “a vital spark” and falling short of expectations as a “mould-breaking launch.” He noted that prosperous print magazines currently prioritize biannual issues with extensive page counts, investment in print quality, and innovative typography. He also expressed surprise at the absence of advertising.
the launch of “72” arrives at a time when editorial independence in fashion magazines is under scrutiny. Vogue recently faced criticism for its September issue featuring Emma Stone exclusively in Louis Vuitton, despite Stone being a brand ambassador as 2017. Vogue maintained the spread was an “entirely editorial” decision,free from commercial influence.
The back cover of “72” features another image of cover star Sydney Roberts, smiling. as rumors continue regarding Wintour’s future and Vogue’s restructuring, some industry observers suggest Enninful might potentially be poised to redefine the landscape of fashion publishing.
