Par Ludivine Corporal
Published on
Bugnes Lyonnaises are a famous dessert throughout France. These small rolled pastries made of flour, butter, egg and sugar are part of the donut family and are usually eaten in February, for Mardi Gras.
But they are not only eaten in Lyon! In the south-east of France, many regions have also made it their culinary specialty, such as Saint-Etienne. Which raises questions about their true origin.
A specialty of the Duchy of Savoy
The bugnes, whose trace goes back to the Rome Antique, were, in France, first a specialty of the Duchy of Savoy in the 15th century. They ended up extending to Forez, Lyon, Dauphiné, the Aosta Valley, that of the Rhône, in Franche-Comté but also in Auvergne.
The word “bugne” is nevertheless intimately linked to Lyon since it results from the francization of the Lyonnais term “bugni” which designates a donut.
Mentioned from the 16th century in Lyon
In 1532, in the 16th century, François Rabelais mentions bugnes for the first time among other typical dishes of Lyon cuisine.
More or less at the same time, in Saint-Etienne, history also mentions a tradition during Lentaccording to which charcutiers offered bugnes instead of meat.
It is therefore difficult to know where the bugnes appeared first. Lyon and Saint-Etienne often dispute the title of “city of origin”…
Two types of bugs
Today, there are two types of bugnes: the first are yellow, flat and crispy with a very thin paste. The second are redder and softer, with a thicker paste.
Here again, concerning the “real recipe”, at least the one made in Lyon, the pastry chefs do not always agree…
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