Sunday, April 3, at the Mythos festivalwhich continues until April 10, in Rennesbetween the concerts of Jeanne Cherhal and Hubert-Félix Thiéfaine, some 200 people rushed into the marquee of Les Toqués for dinner.
Unique menu, admittedly at €30, but concocted that evening by three chefs from gourmet restaurants, including two starred ones: Ronan Kervarrec, from Maison Kervarrec, near Rennes, and Vivien Durand, from Prince Noir, near Bordeaux . Julien Lemarié, also starred for the Ima, in Rennes, had come to lend a hand. As for Yannick Tranchant, from l’Escargot 1903, in Puteaux (Hauts-de-Seine), he provided the desserts.
“An artistic approach”
During the ten days of the festival, seventy chefs will follow one another for lunch and dinner. If for the past ten years, the majority of music festivals have made a real effort on catering, favoring local products, varied and quality food, Mythos has chosen to invite chefs…
“For us, it’s also an artistic approach, says Maël Le Goff, director of Mythos. With them, we go to the discovery, like it or not. And among the chefs, there are also stars, as among the musicians, both bringing conviviality. » Ronan Kervarrec speaks willingly of “culinary score” chiefs.
Chefs Vivien Durand and Julien Lemarié, Sunday April 3, at the Mythos festival, in Rennes. © Thomas Bregardis / Ouest-France
Instigator of Les Toqués, Franck Maciag remembers the beginnings, with cooks only from Rennes. “The first year, nobody wanted to come. The concept was not understood. Little by little, we opened up to other chefs, to introduce the festival outside of Rennes. It was a day, a chief. Until I had the idea of bringing in three chefs for the same meal to create emulation. »
He doesn’t realize right away that he’s hit the nail on the head. Chefs will love finding themselves working together. “It gets us out of our restaurant. We see friends and we make new acquaintances. explains Yannick Tranchant.
“The same know-how”
For Julien Lemarié, “We come of course to cook, but also to have fun. It’s more bistronomy, because instead of our usual thirty covers, it’s more like 200 to 300. But these are the same products and the same know-how…”
All prepared the basics in their restaurants, with assembly on site. With each shot, you have to see them help each other, between two jokes. Ronan Kervarrec has prepared a mimosa of egg horseradish and mustard, velouté of asparagus tails (from Pointe de la Torche, in Finistère) and tuile with sea lettuce (a seaweed) “for iodine, the marine smell”. From tomorrow, this starter will be served as an appetizer in his restaurant.
Vivien Durand, who wanted to bring her terroir with “a very lively dish” , concocted pig’s trotters and cod from Bègles with a pil-pil sauce and pak-choï (Chinese cabbage). “We don’t really work, it’s fun”, says the one whose Julien Lemarié highlights ” generosity. His dishes look like him, full of delicacies…” For dessert, Yannick Tranchant took advantage of the first gariguettes, from Plougastel, to prepare strawberries with lemon thyme cream and crispy meringue.
With such promises, the Toqués are enjoying great success. “I think it works because it’s not very expensive for gourmet dishes. And then there is the discovery, believes Franck Maciag. We are also lucky that Julien Lemarié, with his address book, will pick up some starred stars for us. They talk about it among themselves and are happy to come to see something else. »
Sunday evening at Mythos, from the marquee-concert hall to the marquee-restaurant, all the senses were really solicited.