Decryption. – Founded 15 years ago by Rei Kawabuko and Adrian Joffe, the most innovative and globally respected concept store opens its first address in France. Entirely dedicated to beauty.
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Nothing on the walls. Nothing on the floors. Especially no flashy logos, even less overloaded shelves. Upon entering, this Dover Street Parfums Market appears the exact opposite of all the beauty stores and lambda perfumes in the capital. In the heart of the Marais, in the small rue Elzévir, sufficiently set back from the too busy one of the Francs-Bourgeois, Rei Kawakubo – the stylist of Comme des Garçons and founder, with her partner Adrian Joffe, of the concept stores Dover Street Market – designed a strange decor of pillars with different textures and sizes, the rough design of which leaves plenty of room for the products. Only a few names among the fifty brands presented on the two levels were able to arrange their space. Provided they give free rein to their creativity. Gucci and his The Alchemist’s Garden line with a vintage aesthetic, Thom Browne for his first collection of smells around the obsessive vetiver, Ben Gorham who imagined an astonishing metallic blue box for his Byredo fragrances. “I immediately wanted to collaborate on this new project because, with their Comme des Garçons fragrances, Rei and Adrian inspired me a lot and allowed me to believe that we could offer different and uncalibrated smells,” explains Mr. Gorham, who in turn dynamite the codes of a well-meaning perfumery. This Dover Street Market is, like all the others around the world: a special place where everyone can express themselves most sincerely, without restriction and without marketing. ” This is what makes the strength of the DSM label: special attention to creation. Especially when it seems insensitive to the deviations of the trend.
Sublime chaos but commercial success
“When we opened the first store in London fifteen years ago, we felt that classic commerce had become obsolete and devoid of originality, not only in department stores but also among single-brand brands,” explains Adrian Joffe, president of Like boys. We wanted to break convention, turn what had become a very conservative industry. At first, the store didn’t work at all: people were confused by this “sublime chaos”. ” Today, the turnover of all the Dover Street Markets (London opened in 2004 then Tokyo, New York, Los Angeles, Beijing, Singapore) amounts to around 130 million euros and represents 30% of income of the Comme des Garçons group. And now, this clever mix of luxury brands and young labels, applied to cosmetics, convinces at first glance. Especially in Paris, where such a delightful and heterogeneous selection – from varnish at 2 euros to the candle at more than 1000 euros – was lacking.
Here, nothing is fixed or planned and the feeling prevails over any marketing anticipation. “Initially, we just wanted to expand our Parisian perfume store Comme des Garçons and, in the end, this place seemed too large. Hence the spontaneous idea of a DSM replicated on a small scale and focused on a single sector, continues Adrian Joffe, who set up this project in barely six months. Much of what we do is the result of fortuitous accidents. As for selection, we have no “formula”, we operate on intuition and instinct. Even if I need to know the history of the brand, its context and the vision attached to it. Whether it’s a century-old luxury house or two Berliners making the juices in their living room. “
Smart cosmetics
M.A.C / Photo presse
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As in the Dover Street Market of London or that of Ginza, the avant-garde rubs shoulders with sure values, in a fluid manner. Without fuss. Mélanie Simon’s powerful vitamin C serum, which is popular in Los Angeles, dialogues with the formulas proven since the 19th century by the famous Dr Bronner’s. The spicy rose imagined by Chloë Sevigny for the Californian label Régime des Fleurs rubs against the carnal tuberose of the legendary Fracas de Piguet. MAC’s Tattoo kit, created for the occasion, does not eclipse make-up artist Gucci Westman’s make-up artist Gucci Westman’s makeup hitherto unobtainable in France or the American Edward Bess’s lipsticks. And alongside the complete line of perfumes branded “Comme des”, you will not find the latest Nina Ricci seen everywhere else but rather her timeless Air du Temps posed nearly ten classics including Eau de Rochas or Pour un. Caron’s man.
“In a beauty industry increasingly leveled to the bottom, obsessed with social networks and eager for novelty, DSM makes it possible to reconnect with a more artistic and intelligent, almost cerebral cosmetic. By entering this airy and warm space, we are sure to find the “right” product ”, summarizes Nicolas Gerlier, founder of the eco-responsible makeup label La Bouche Rouge and who has created, for the occasion, an exclusive shade (1) . “Rei never wears lipstick,” he continues, “but we wanted to offer something inspired by her unique wardrobe: a mat and deep black outrenoir that goes just as well on the mouth of a very trendy girl as on the more classic one of my wife ! As radical as it is therefore accessible. Just like this new beauty spot.
BDS, 11 bis, rue Elzevir, Paris (IIIe)
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