DiorS Jonathan Anderson debuts a Collection of Contrasts, Signaling a Potential Shift for the House
PARIS, october 1, 2025 - Jonathan Anderson’s inaugural collection for Dior, presented today in Paris, offered a study in contrasts, blending the brand’s inherent elegance with conceptual design elements. The spring-summer 2026 parade sparked discussion about the future direction of the iconic fashion house, with some looks resonating strongly while others appeared disconnected from Dior’s established DNA.
The collection represents a pivotal moment for Dior, as Anderson steps into a role previously held by Maria Grazia Chiuri. His arrival has generated significant anticipation within the fashion industry, with observers eager to see how he will balance honoring the brand’s rich heritage with introducing innovative ideas. Anderson himself acknowledges the ancient scrutiny faced by past Dior designers, referencing initial negative reactions to the appointments of Yves Saint Laurent and John Galliano.
Anderson’s collection showcased successes like a black silk blouse paired with an ivory scarf and a khaki mini dress featuring a short train-outfits described as both flattering and unconventional. However, pieces that altered the body’s silhouette in ways perceived as unflattering were noted as potentially misaligned with consumer desires and the brand’s core aesthetic.
“Its most accomplished looks are those that create a bridge between the inherent charm in Dior and the conceptualization that is dear to it,” the collection revealed. Anderson expressed confidence in the house’s capacity for reinvention, stating, “All the designers who took over this house have been criticized.” He anticipates a process of refinement as he establishes his vision for Dior, aiming to enrich its legacy with fresh perspectives. The collection lays an interesting foundation, but the definitive new Dior remains to be fully defined.
Julien de Rosa/AFP captured the event.
