Million Dollar Trek: Hiking Paradise in Colorado‘s San Juan Mountains

I was crouching in the shelter of a boulder, 12,000 feet up in Colorado’s San Juan Mountains, as wind and rain whipped around me. The San juan Mountains, younger than many other ranges in the Rocky Mountain system, offer a sublime place to hike. This particular moment, though, felt less than paradisiacal. Two fighter jets whizzed by,the roar of their engines cutting through the sound of thunder. pellets of ice began to fall from the sky.

embracing the Elements on the Million Dollar Trek

“Once the hail comes, it means it’s almost over,” said John Vipiana, one of my hiking companions. I wasn’t sure if he meant the storm, or our lives. The two of us had walked ahead of the rest of our group of nine hikers and two guides, and were now alone. In a few minutes, the hail let up, and we were reunited with everyone, laughing in disbelief at how wild the weather had turned in the first few miles of our multiday trek.

As we continued our descent, the sky turned a brilliant blue. Someone asked where we were. Our lead guide,Patrick Ormond,called out over his shoulder: “Paradise basin.” Thinking about the emerald lake we’d passed just before the storm, and looking out at the field of wildflowers and the grove of spruce and fir trees ahead of us, I had to agree.

Did You know? The San Juan Mountains are home to many of Colorado’s “fourteeners,” mountains over 14,000 feet.

The Allure of the San Juan Mountains

The san Juans are younger than many other ranges in the Rocky Mountain system. Over millennia,continental plates collided,volcanoes erupted and collapsed on themselves,and calderas formed. This up-and-down motion created a spine of steep, jagged mountains that run through southwestern Colorado.The area is now home to many of the state’s “fourteeners,” or mountains over 14,000 feet, as well as deep, bowl-shaped valleys carved by ancient glaciers. The combination of high peaks and scooped-out ravines makes the San Juans a hardcore backcountry ski destination and, in summer, a sublime place to hike.

An avid backpacker, I wanted to experience a side of Colorado that few travelers do. So last August,I flew to Ouray-a common launching point for adventures in the region-to embark on a 35-mile hut-to-hut traverse run by San Juan Mountain Guides, a local tour operator that has been organizing hiking, skiing, and climbing trips as 1986.

In the Alps,you can trek all day with a light pack,arrive at a comfortable chalet,sit down to a home-cooked meal,sleep in a real bed,then wake up and do it all again. This kind of hut-to-hut hiking is rare in the United States, but over the past decade, a handful of European-style modern huts have opened in the San Juans.

The Million Dollar Trek Experience

Two years ago, Nate Disser, the owner of San Juan Mountain Guides, and Patrick, who is the company’s head guide, got the idea to link up three huts to create an epic, five-day guided hike. They decided to name it the Million Dollar trek, a reference to the cinematic-and slightly terrifying- Million dollar Highway, which winds 25 miles through the mountains between Ouray and Silverton.Some say the road is named for the staggering views, while others claim it’s as it reportedly took $1 million to build each mile.

After the hail, we continued walking through intermittent rain. Our motley crew was a mix of experienced adventurers and regular folks searching for an active vacation.

John and his wife, Ann Fitzmaurice, who live in Oregon, were easygoing and gregarious-and also intimidatingly fit. They were traveling with their friend Dave Gooder, a lawyer from Virginia. Three middle-aged brothers, Jim, Mike, and Ed Styslinger, had come from Texas. Kelley Johnson and her 10-year-old son, Chase, hailed from Boulder, Colorado. Chase impressed us all with his stamina,good spirits,and ease around grown-ups. I came in with solid trekking experience and a couple of half marathons under my belt.

Our two guides, however, were on an entirely different level. With his handlebar mustache and long ponytail, Patrick had the rangy, tanned look of someone who spends a lot of time in the mountains. A national collegiate rowing champion, he has led expeditions to Argentina’s Mount Aconcagua, the highest mountain outside of Asia.

Steven Van Sickle-similarly strong, and always in a close-fitting beanie-has guided mountaineering and ski trips to some of the most legendary peaks in China and India. Both have also summited Mount McKinley (also known as Denali), in Alaska, and are licensed by the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations, the world’s most respected guiding organization.

Key Metrics of the Million Dollar Trek

Pro Tip: Pack layers when hiking in the San Juan Mountains, as the weather can change rapidly.

Have you ever hiked in the San Juan Mountains? What was your favorite part of the experience?

Would you consider embarking on the Million Dollar Trek? Why or why not?

Share your thoughts and experiences in the comments below!