Au Woodward – Vegetables, stars of the Gardener

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Le Jardinier is a restaurant concept created by chef Alain Verzeroli. This disciple of Joël Robuchon launched it in New York and Miami. After these two American successes (one Michelin star in New York), Le Jardinier also moved to Geneva in the new palace on the Quai Wilson, The Woodward. It is managed by the hotel’s executive chef, Olivier Jean, who is especially attached to the Atelier Robuchon.

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This second table offers a vegetal, bright and elegant decor and a bistronomic menu where vegetables often play the leading roles.

Valais trout and avocado

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Let’s taste these raw cubes of Valais trout and these quenelles of guacamole placed on a tangy jelly. Doped with kalamansi, embellished with Kombu, an algae found in miso soups, it delicately highlights the flavor of the fish. How about a little beef tartare as a starter? The meat, cut with a knife, of course, is saturated with horseradish mayonnaise and shallot. On tasting, crispy notes are surprising. We discover some grains of puffed rice which brings very nice sensations.

A cauliflower risotto

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The cauliflower risotto is an irresistible eye-catcher. A vegetarian dish that will trigger the most intense pleasure of the meal. Here, no rice, but al dente and tasty vegetable grains. A hair-raising feeling. The cooking is started with the small arvine and releases new flavors. The garnish is assured of cauliflower blades, bouquets of romanesco and thin slices of sbrinz. The dessert menu announces a Black Forest according to the original recipe created by Paul Castricher in 1947. The famous pastry chef on Boulevard du Pont-d’Arve had in fact perfected it in 1964. The current Stettler-Castrischer house, which has two points of sale in Geneva, offers this milk, dark or white chocolate cake. At Le Jardinier, we serve two versions that seem to come from the laboratory of the chocolatier-pastry chef. Excellent by the way.

Le Jardinier, Hotel The Woodward, 37, quai Wilson, Geneva; Phone. 022 901 37 80; open every day ; Menu 140fr; à la carte (starter, main course and dessert), count 90 fr; valet; Disabled access ; very expensive wine list Bread rating ⅖; Attentive service